Katranci to Fethiye

Fully appreciated the campsite in an idyllic bay, especially due to its blissfully peaceful setting. We both slept soundly the whole night through, which has been a rarity in Turkey. Not only are we woken by the call to prayer around dawn, but as it is Ramadan, someone runs around banging a drum at around 3am to wake folks up so they can eat before the sun rises. Usually there is a flock of chickens nearby too, dogs that bark at each other through the night and often the odd donkey braying for good measure. A challenge for even the heaviest sleepers. Rode on a short way to Fethiye to do some shopping. İn the evenıng we wandered to the fish market where you can buy your own fish and then take it to a restaurant where theyll cook it for a small fee and throw in pıtta and salad to make it into a tasty meal.
======================================
Total Distance Cycled : 5575m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 24km
Ascent : 124m
Time Cycling : 1h 50
Journey Time : 1h 50
Average Speed : 13.3 km/h
Hotel: N 36°37'16.9" E 29°06'06.6"
=====================================

Köycegiz to Katranci

Shortly after setting off this morning Callie screeched to a halt a few meters short of running over a snake. About 3 foot long it appeared to be sunbathing at the edge of the road, luckily it quickly slithered off into the undergrowth. The road took us towards the coast up and down a series of hills and a low pass. At the pass all the other traffic got to use a newly built tunnel through the hill whereas we, who could've really done with the shortcut, had to slog the last few hundred meters up and over the summit. It's chilli harvest time and everywhere they are spread out on sheets to dry in colourful carpets or strung up on lines they festoon buildings. We had a pickled variety in our lunch today which was very tasty. At sunset we wound our way down to a small cove ringed by cliffs and just enough room for a campsite behind the beach. Planning a day off to appreciate the idyllic setting.
======================================
Total Distance Cycled : 5551m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 65km
Ascent : 624m
Time Cycling : 5h 10
Journey Time : 8h
Average Speed : 12.7 km/h
Campsite : N 36°42'36.7" E 29°01'56.3"
=====================================

Muğla to Köyceğiz

Climbed another pass this morning past lizards scrambling in the rocks by the side of the road. These were not the usual tiddlers we've seen before in hot countries, but were fat as a babies arm and looked like the sort of thing you'd see in a reptile house. The top of the pass gained us spectacular views down to the sea, a plain beside it and more hills beyond. Ended the day at a sleepy town by a lake, separated from the sea by a small strip of land and a swampy creek. It's a very pleasant spot, the still water of the lake ringed by mountains hazy in the distance.
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Total Distance Cycled : 5486m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 67km
Ascent : 386m
Time Cycling : 4h 15
Journey Time : 6h 30
Average Speed : 15.6 km/h
Campsite : N 36°57'34.5" E 28°40'33.2"
=====================================

Yatağan to Muğla

A less arduous day, as we continued south east sticking a bit inland so as to avoid the package holiday destinations of Bodrum and Mamaris. Our route through rolling countryside took us to Mugla a sizeable authentically Turkish town. Unlike the last couple of places we've stayed at Mugla has an interesting old quarter with narrow streets and crumbling stone buildings. We treated ourselves to a visit to the local hamam and had our first Turkish bath and massage. With some trepidation we had chosen a mixed bathing place so we could experience it together. Luckily we had the place to ourselves. We were ushered into the sauna area after changing into cloth towels and borrowed clogs. We sat and sweated for as long as we could manage and then hovered in the bathing room admiring the domed ceiling and marble washing basins of the mediaeval building. The attendant returned and the washing began. Laid out on a marble slab we were scrubbed vigorously with a rough flannel until we had been exfoliated and our top layer of skin made dirty black strings. Then came the soaping, a pillowcase was filled with suds and air and then rubbed over our bodies. This felt velvety soft after the flannel, and left a blanket of foam to envelop us. More soap was applied by hand accompanied by a bit of massaging, fortunately not as vigorous as we'd feared. After being sluiced off we were wrapped up in layers of towel from head to toe including a fetching turban. We were then guided upstairs to lounge on pillows and drink tea. A very pleasant way to remove the grime of a days cycling. After dinner we almost made it back to the hotel, but were dragged into the bar opposite by the owner who used to live in England. We were fed raki and Turkish coffee while he made us learn some Turkish phrases, to amusement of the regulars.
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Total Distance Cycled : 5419m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 29km
Ascent : 373m
Time Cycling : 2h 15
Journey Time : 3h 30
Average Speed : 12.6 km/h
Hotel : N 37°13'03.1" E 28°21'56.1"
=====================================

Milas to Yatağan

Continued south and eastwards a little inland from the Mediterranean Coast. The day consisted of a lot of uphill as we battled through the mountains. Ended the day in a normal Turkish town in a rather shabby hotel. Later in the evening when we stepped out to look for food we were accosted by one of the many blokes that hang around in the hotel lobby. He insisted that we follow him rather than eat next door. He proceeded to lead us down many dark alleys to a brightly lit self service canteen. He got us trays and hovered about as we selected our dishes. Having thought he was going to take us for a ride it turned out to be quite the opposite and he paid for our dinner and refused to be reimbursed. Back at the hotel we had a mime and stunted English conversation with all the hotel guys about our trip and Turkey in general.
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Total Distance Cycled : 5390m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 43km
Ascent : 724m
Time Cycling : 3h 50
Journey Time : 6h
Average Speed : 11.1 km/h
Hotel : N 37°20'26.5" E 28°08'21.6"
=====================================

Çamici Gölü to Milas

Continued on the undulating road to the end of the lake with misty mountains rising up from the opposite shore, the crags looking indistinct and smuged in the morning light. As we left the lake behind our way wound through a maze of conical hills, and rows of olive trees. We passed the occasional strip town, no more than a few cafes existing to serve the dolmus buses which plie the highways. Made an early stop before lunch as there are scant places to stay now we've headed inland. Milas is a busy market town which few other tourists visit, a slice of real Turkish life. We wandered around in the afternoon buying essential snack supplies, having become addicted to honey and sesame coated roasted peanuts and mixed bags of roasted chickpeas, sweetcorn and pumpkin seeds.
======================================
Total Distance Cycled : 5347m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 41km
Ascent : 303m
Time Cycling : 3h
Journey Time : 3h 30
Average Speed : 13.5 km/h
Campsite : N 37°18'49.5" E 27°46'45.5"
=====================================

Güllübahçe to Çamici Gölü

After yesterdays mountainbiking epic we were glad to be in one of the only flat areas in Turkey. The first 10km were marred by a headwind,but as we turned onto the highway the wind was on our backs so we were able to speed along foe a while. Our route then took into the hills and we climbed up to skirt around a lake. Half way along the enormous lake we happened across a campsite in an idyllic setting. As the price was about 80p each we felt unable to turn the opportunity down and after yesterdays excertions we felt we deserved some lounging time.
======================================
Total Distance Cycled : 5306m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 47km
Ascent : 197m
Time Cycling : 2h 54
Journey Time : 4h 30
Average Speed : 16.1 km/h
Campsite : N 37°28'30.6" E 27°26'52.2"
=====================================

Güzelçamli to Güllübahçe

This morning we realised that our chosen route would take us over a ridge of hills that had been looming in the distance yesterday. We've only managed to get a basic large scale map of Turkey so far, with no contours or spot heights to help us when selectiong routes. Having already had to backtrack yesterday, we decided not to return 10km to the highway, and opted to tackle the hills instead. The scant information on our map showed our route would take 12km to cross the ridge, assuming half would be up and the rest down we set forth thinking we would be at the top in an hour, how wrong we were The road gradually deteriorated into a dirt track, and progress was slow going over the loose rocks and sand. There were more animal tracks than human and we spotted wild boar and snake prints in the sand. It soon became apparent that the road was not following a direct route. What had looked like a straight path instead wound its way up the hillside and then began to follow the line of the ridge of hills. We kept climbing bluff after bluff believing each one to be the way over the pass, only to find yet another false summit, and the road snaking off ahead of us. In the afternoon we were surprised to encounter a pair of German cyclists on the otherwise deserted road. They accompanied us for awhile until we reached the top of the road, and they headed back the way we'd come. We set off down hill thinking the worst was behind us, but soon came to a junction with a choice of four routes. After much deliberation we chose to go straight ahead, but after about a kilometer the path just vanished into nothing. Incredulous we returned to the crossroads and chose the next most likely route. This dropped off steeply before again turning into nothing leaving us to battle back up once more to the now familiar crossroads. We almost decided to retrace our steps completely before taking the plunge and following yet another path. We were soon rewarded with a view towards the plain we were heading to all day. We proceeded to race the sunset as we plunged down the hillside with tremendous vistas around each torturous bend in the path. We ended the day only a few km from where we started but nonetheless glad to have a roof over our haeds rather than sleeping in the woods.
======================l================
Total Distance Cycled : 5259m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 39km
Ascent : 1041m
Time Cycling : 5h 23
Journey Time : 9h
Average Speed : 8.8 km/h
Campsite : N 37°39'43.8" E 27°18'19.5"
=====================================

Selçuk to Güzelçamli

Spent a day off in Selçuk visiting the nearby ruined Roman city of Ephesus. This is the most well preserved site we've visited so far. As well as the usual temple and amphitheatre remains, here there are also some remarkably intact roman houses. The houses even retain several stories and many mosaics and frescos still adorn them. We were enthralled. Soaked up some more atmosphere in the afternoon at the town's weekly market. Headed off the next day, retraced our route to Kusadasi and quickly cycled onwards. Passed seemingly endless swathes of large concrete hotels, and slopes bristling with identical concrete houses. Managed to find a small campsite at the end of the day, and did our first bout of haggling to knock 25% off the price.
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Total Distance Cycled : 5220m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 46km
Ascent : 236m
Time Cycling : 3h 10
Journey Time : 4h 20
Average Speed : 14.5 km/h
Campsite : N 37°42'54.6" E 27°13'06.3"
=====================================

Samos to Selçuk

Arrived in Samos feeling battered and not very rested at around seven in the morning. On leaving the boat we were pleased to discover we could get a ferry to Kusadasi, Turkey that very morning, rather than wait 24 hours whilst our passports were registered as the guide book implied. More waiting and more sailing later we arrived in Kusadasi at ten am. With Kusadasi being a huge package tourist resort we had an English breakfast. We were also immediately surprised by the friendliness and affability of the Turks. When we were fully fuelled we headed the short way up the coast to Selçuk where we checked into a hotel which was cheaper than most campsites we've stayed at. After a nap we wandered into town and had our first mouth wateringly good Turkish meal.

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Total Distance Cycled : 5174m

======================================

Daily Distance Cycled : 20km

Ascent : 136m

Time Cycling : 1h 16

Journey Time : 1h 16

Average Speed : 16 km/h

Campsite : N 37°57'26.1" E 27°22'07.8"

=====================================

Athens to Samos

Spent a few days in Athens seeing the obligatory sites. The Acropolis was typically covered in scaffolding, as any self respecting major monument is apt to be, but was still an impressive sight. It also provided good views of the whole of Athens stretching as far as the eye could see in every direction. All the more impressive as only 80years ago all that existed was the small old town just below the Acropolis. Today we crossed the city to Pireas, the port of Athens. Ferries leave from here to every Greek Island, and some beyond, so the sea front is a confusing melee. Finally found our ferry and managed to bag a slightly less uncomfortable option in economy class of some broken seats that reclined further than they were supposed to. Tried to convince ourselves they resembled the bed chairs on first class airlines, and settled in for our long haul of 13hours.
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Total Distance Cycled : 5152m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 11km
Ascent : 23m
Time Cycling : 52min
Journey Time : 52min
Average Speed : 11.9 km/h
Campsite : N 37°45'28.3" E 26°58'16.3"
=====================================

Kineta to Athens

Set off again on the last leg to Athens. Spotted a nifty shortcut, caught a ferry to Salamina Island in the Saronik gulf, the bay outside Athens, and cycled across the Island to another ferry that took us to Perana just south of Athens. This cut out a large section of the bay which we would have had to follow all the way round and also meant we avoided entering Athens on the major arteries. Traffic was still heavy though and we were glad of the gps to guide us seamlessly to the campsite in the outskirts of the city.

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Total Distance Cycled : 5142m

======================================

Daily Distance Cycled : 51km

Ascent : 423m

Time Cycling : 3h 38

Journey Time : 5h 4,

Average Speed : 13.9 km/h

Campsite : N 38°00'32.4" E 23°40'20.4"

=====================================

Corinthos to Kineta

Spent a couple of days camped at Corith next to an English cycle tourist who arrived after us on a recumbent tricycle having also cycled from home but via France and Itlay, a more direct route than ours. Crossed over the Corinth canal in the morning, with a brief stop to watch the boats passing beneath us. Stopped after a short day at the last campsite before Athens.
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Total Distance Cycled : 5091m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 33km
Ascent : 119m
Time Cycling : 2h 15
Journey Time : 3h 10
Average Speed : 14.8 km/h
Campsite : N 37°57'09.9" E 23°10'51.7"
=====================================

Arkato Beach to Corinthos

The terrain and conditions continued as they have done for the past few days. As we neared Corinth the Gulf started to close in with the north coast only a short distance away across the water. Yet again a campsite marked on the map was not to be found on the ground. We took this in our stride as we now expect this to happen and only believe in the mirages when we have booked in and put up the tent. The benign riding conditions meant the extra miles to the alternative campsite were covered without problem.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4954m

======================================

Daily Distance Cycled : 62km

Ascent : 90m

Time Cycling : 4h 40

Journey Time : 7h 15

Average Speed : 13.1 km/h

Campsite : N 37°56'07.4" E 22°51'56.6"

=====================================

Lambiri to Arkato Beach

Continued along the Gulf of Corinth, heading east along the Peleponese. As opposed to the mainland coast the road here is more forgiving for cyclists. The road here parrallels a motorway so only carries light local traffic. The hills are also much less pronounced with good sections of flat. As the road hugs the coast we are treated to marvelous views of the inviting azure sea with only a headwind to put a dampener on things.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4995m

======================================

Daily Distance Cycled : 41km

Ascent : 187m

Time Cycling : 2h 40

Journey Time : 3h

Average Speed : 15.5 km/h

Campsite : N 38°10'25.1" E 22°20'15.8"

======================================

Sami to Lambiri

Back to business today with an early rise to get the ferry back to the mainland, our week of R&R now over. The trauma of an early start was made even worse after a week of lazy mornings lounging by the pool and delicious over sized dinners. After docking in Patras in the Peleponese we pointed ourselves east once more on the road to Athens.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4954m

======================================

Daily Distance Cycled : 30km

Ascent : 150m

Time Cycling : 2h

Journey Time : 2h 30

Average Speed : 15 km/h

Campsite : N 38°19'15.2" E 21°58'18.2"

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Neo Hori to 1 Emilja Villas, Sami, Kefallonia

We were up early again to be away from our campsite before we were noticed by who ever owned the grove of trees. This meant we made it to Astakos and the ferry to Cephalonia in time to sail today. We met Luke's parents at the dockside and followed the car the short distance to the villa looking forward to a week off.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4924m

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Daily Distance Cycled : 38km

Ascent : 200m

Time Cycling : 3h

Journey Time : 3h 30

Average Speed : 12.7 km/h

Villa : N 38°14'30.0" E 20°38'11.6"

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Dounis Beach to Neo Hori

The pattern of a coastal road rolling along steep hillsides continued today untill we reached a flat marshly landscape near the town of Messolongi. There were still no campsites and the few hotels were all full. As there was no room at the inn we cycled onwards and as evening came we discreetly ducked into a lemon grove and waited for dusk before making camp.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4887m
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 60km
Ascent : 203m
Time Cycling : 4h 16
Journey Time : 6h
Average Speed : 14.1 km/h
Campsite : N 38°25'47.3" E 21°16'52.9"
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Eratini to Dounis Beach

Up early to vacate our camping spot on the beach before we attracted too much attention. Continued along the Gulf of Corinth following the undulating coast road. We're wondering what's happened to all the campsites in this area as more that were marked on the map today seem to have never existed and others, we were told, have closed down. Finally found one at the end of the day although clearly past it's prime, with an air of decrepitude and decay.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4827m

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Daily Distance Cycled : 56km

Ascent : 320m

Time Cycling : 3h 38

Journey Time : h

Average Speed : 15.3 km/h

Campsite : N 38°20'33.3" E 21°46'14.4"

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Delphi to Eratini

After a day off to visit the ancient Delphi, we set off again following the coast westwards. With undulating terrain we were able to make good headway in the morning. This was fortunate becase we were then delayed by Callie's disintergrating tyres. For the past 500km we have been sewing and patching them with cardboard and duct tape, desperatly attempting to make them last until we rendevous with Luke's folks who are bringing spares. The new tyres are cutting edge and made of space age technology fabric, which we hope will last longer. With the back tyre patched up yet again we made ready to leave, but did not even manage to exit the layby before her front tyre similarly went down in sympathy. Much cursing later we finally hit the road. Our map yet again showed mythical campsites which did not exsist in the real world. Late in the afternoon we stopped in a café to seek local advice. We were told that there were no campsites in the vicinity and the nearest one was back in Delphi. We decided to rough camp rather than fork out for another hotel, and headed for a secluded bit of beach at the edge of the village. Swam in the sea and fixed the puncture riddled inner tubes while we waited for the sun to go down before pitching our tent.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4771m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 49km
Ascent : 618m
Time Cycling : 3h 17
Journey Time : 6h
Average Speed : 14.9 km/h
Campsite : N 38°21'19.8" E 22°13'36.9"
====================================== 

Mariolata to Delphi

Finally left the sanctuary of our appartment with Callie feeling mostly better. We were followed out of the village by a mangy stray dog for quite a few km. Previously we would have welcomed a canine companion, but our recent experiences with dogs have scarred us, and we found it slightly unnerving. Luckily it stayed behind in the shade after one of our rest stops and we battled on uphill alone to cross our final mountain barrier before the coast We were glad of the little cloud cover which kept the day from becoming scorching, and also grateful to some kindly Italians in a mobile home who ran over to us in a layby with blissfully ice cold water. When the temperature goes over 40, as it has often done here, the water in our bottles only stays cool for about an hour and after that it rapidly becomes unpaletably hot and looses all thirst quenching qualities, so that we have to force ourselves to drink it at all. After reaching the summit we cruised downhill and all afternoon had a view of the most enormous olive grove, a silvery green carpet that covered the whole valley all the way down to the gulf of Corinth.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4722m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 50km
Ascent : 618m
Time Cycling : 3h 27
Journey Time : 6h 15
Average Speed : 14.4 km/h
Campsite : N 38°28'24.6" E 22°27'32.0"
====================================== 

Thafmaka to Mariolada

Slept late to day recovering from yesterdays exsertions hoping for a day off. After a lazy morning and as check out approached we asked to stay another night only to be turned away. The temperature was now about 45 degrees and two major climbs were in the way of anywhere else to stay. We made the hard choise of taking the train over the mountains. The train was late so we cycled in the dark to the town we had planned where we found the hotel to be full. After asking in a bar and the local police we ended up finding somewhwere to stay a further 5km down the dark road.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4658m

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Daily Distance Cycled : 14km

Ascent : 383m

Time Cycling : 54min

Journey Time :

Average Speed : 12.8 km/h

Hotel : N 38°38'56.1" E 22°29'01.7"

====================================== 

Meteora to Thafmaka

Set off this morning and climbed up to cycle around the spires and monasteries of Meteora as the sun rose. Our efforts were rewarded with stunning vistas and cool air before the mercury rose to over 40 degrees again. The rest of the day was spent making good ground in the sweltering heat of the Plain of Thessaly. In the mid afternoon we made it to our intended goal only to find that the hotel marked on our map was a myth. After enqiries we were told of place to stay 35km up the road. We therfore set off again after waiting for the day to cool to complete our longest day yet. We chased the sunset and arrived tired and hungry as the night closed in.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4644m

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Daily Distance Cycled : 112km

Ascent : 383m

Time Cycling : 6h 26

Journey Time : 1h 50

Average Speed : 17.4 km/h

Hotel : N 39°09'23.2" E 22°17'36.8"

====================================== 

Trigona to Meteora

Set off this morning for more well earnt downhill. Coasted along the sinuous road heading towards the rock spires of Meteora that grew ever bigger the hazy distance. Suffered another dog attack just short of our goal. This was merely an over enthusiastic pet that shot out of a driveway hot on Callie's heels. Luckily she was already coasting along at a fast pace, but with the dog gaining on her she managed to accelerate at a previously unknown rate and the dog gave up its pursit skidding to an ungainly halt. Arrived at Kastrki, a small town town nestled below the looming rock spires of Meteora and quickly took advantage of the campsite swimming pool.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4532m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 28km
Ascent : 78m
Time Cycling : 1h 24
Journey Time : 1h 50
Average Speed : 20.1 km/h
Campsite : N 39°43'12.9" E 21°37'11.6"
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Metsovo to Trigona

The climbing continued this morning as we battled up to the Katara pass at 1690m. At that altitude the day was blessedly cool, even so we inched our way up. The mountain, however, was not the only obstacle we had to contend with. As we cycled through a herd of goats we were introduced at close quarters to the vicious local sheep dogs. The herd was unattended and wandering in the road. At first we didn't notice the dogs as they blended in with the multi coloured goats. They soon spotted us though and barreled towards us snarling menacingly, either thinking we were goat rustlers or with dogs typical love of cyclist baiting. Callie sped forwards hoping to outrun them, while Luke gallantly fought them off at the rear frantically trying to zap them with the dog dazer whilst waving a foot at them at the same time. Fortunatly he didn't fall off in the process, and we both sped off as fast as our legs could carry us, until we reached a safe distance away and collapsed in a quaking heap. Once we'd stopped shaking like leaves we picked ourselves up and continued up the hill at a more reasonable pace. We spied a few more wild sheepdogs and heard them howling along the way, but luckily were not forced to run the gauntlet through a pack of them again. Reached the top of the pass for panoramic views of yet more hills, and enjoyed the long run downhill that we'd earnt through the morning's endeavors.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4504m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 43km
Ascent : 632m
Time Cycling : 3h 30
Journey Time : 5h 30
Average Speed : 12.2 km/h
Hotel : N 39°47'17.4"l E 21°24'53.6"
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Ioannina to Metsovo

Left the comfort of our lakside rest stop and headed with trepidation into the heart of the Greek mountains. We yet again found ourselves on a road with no flat sections. As our map lacks contours and few spot heights we only knew that our destination lay 600m above our starting point. We dicovered on the way that we had two other major passes to cross inbetween. Each time we summited we were unable to fully enjoy the ride down the other side as we knew we would only have to crawl back up yet again. Todays road also gets the prize for least forward progress for distance ridden as it was twisty in the extreme. At times we must have ridden a kilometer to progress only a hundred meters forward. We ended the day at our highest overnight yet with the highest pass of our trip to come tommorrow.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4461m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 56km
Ascent : 1236m
Time Cycling : 5h 15
Journey Time : 8h 15
Average Speed : 10.7 km/h
4otel : N 39°46'19.7"l E 21°10'42.7"
======================================

Kalpaki to Ioanina

Having arrived back in civilisation we decided that some R&R was in order. We therefore had short day cycling to the nearest campsite to relax and do the chores that had been building up over the last couple of weeks. The campsite was pleasant and by a lake and gave us time to contemplate the looming Greek mountains that are to come.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4405m

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Daily Distance Cycled : 35km

Ascent : 155m

Time Cycling : 2h 15

Journey Time : 3h

Average Speed : 15.5 km/h

Campsite : N 39°40'41.0"l E 20°50'33.8"

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Gjrocaster to Kalpaki

Gjrocaster old town is a well preserved old place, full of steep cobbled streets and stone houses whose roofs are covered in thick slabs of slate. We found a lovley little guesthouse, by far the nicest cleanest place we've stayed in in Albania. The enormous room had a stripped pine floor covered in old traditional rugs, and the carved and inlaid wooden cornicing, pelmet and built in cupboards had also been restored. The room contained beautiful old furniture and an enormous wooden bed, the first one whose springs didn't dig into us, and that didn't threaten to collapse when we lay on it. The old stone house kept lovley and cool, unlike the modern concrete buildings we've stayed in. The guesthouse even provided breakfast, we werebegining to think that Albanians didn't understand the concept as all that's usually on offer is strong soupy coffee. The next day wet off through the last part of Albania and after our lunch stop our Czech cyclist friend caught up with us again. He accompanied us towards the border where we all smugly sailed past a queue of biblical proportions to cross into Greece without a hitch. As we cycled along the incredibly smooth highway the surrounding hills were now covered in verdant trees where there was only scrub in Albania. There then followed a series of climbs which were tough in the heat of the day before we descended to our destination. Our run of good luck and kindness from strangers continued across the border when we were given a spirg of fresh basil and two free drinks when we stopped at a roadside café.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4370m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 58km
Ascent : 378m
Time Cycling : 4h 10
Journey Time : 7h 30
Average Speed : 13.8 km/h
Hotel : N 39°53'22.9" E 20°37'22.4"
======================================

Memaliaj to Gjrocaster

We haven't seen a single traffic light in Albania, probably because they'd be rendered useless most of the time by power cuts. Occasionally a policeman will man a particularly hazardous junction, where their main function seems to be blowing their whistle at anyone who honks their horn. Police can also be found at the side of major roads brandishing minature lollipops, which they use to stop traffic with. We can't be interesting enough to them as all we've had is a benevolent smile whilst cycling up the motorway. We were a bit purturbed at first after passing the motorway traffic only sign, but as it was the only road heading south we decided to take a chance. Soon we were heartened to see every type of nonmotorway traffic conceivable including mopeds ridden by children, horse drawn carts and even a flock of sheep. The pretense of a motorway was soon over when it ended abruptly at a roundabout. Albanians don't seem to understand the concept of roundabouts. The more major road fails to give way and causes a queue of traffic on the roundabout, which builds up until one of the vehicles at the front decides to play chicken and make a run for it. We've even seen cars going round the wrong way to make a shortcut. All this probably stems from the fact that until the collapse of communism private cars were prohibited, resulting in a maximu of 15 years driving experience for any Albanian. This fact is made all the worse because when car ownership was finally allowed everyone went to Italy or Greece to learn to drive. This afternoon we passed yet more roadworks as the road to Greece is upgraded to a motorway. The road was in varying states of destruction and at one point we were halted as a digger caused an avalanche from above only a few meters ahead of us. The rocks were being cascaded down the hill in this way to provide hardcore for building the road.
======================================
Total Distance Cycled : 4312km
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 39km
Ascent : 325m
Time Cycling : 2h 45
Journey Time : 3h 40
Average Speed : 14.2 km/h
Hotel : N 40°04'33.3" E 20°08'15.5"
======================================

Ballsh to Memaliaj

As we continued into the hills although the going was hard the scenery dramatically improved. Gone were the heaps of rubbish and rusting oil fields. In their place were stunning hills and wide gravelled river beds, empty in the summer drought. The terrain began to become more remote and the horizon was no longer dotted with concrete shanties. Mid morning we encountered a Czech cycle tourist slumbering beneath a tree. We woke him to share fruit and tales of the road performed in a mixture of bad mime, German, English and lukes only two words of Czech. Our rest break over we packed up to leave and realised to Callie's dismay that he intended to accompany us up the hill. She needn't have worried as his enormous collection of panniers, rucksacs and bags strapped to his bike must've weighed even more than Luke's luggage and slowed him down so that she could easily kick his ass up hill. His whole mismatched ensemble had the aura of bag lady about it and the fact that it threatened to topple at any moment also reduced his speed. Our superiour bikes and suspension also enabled us to take the potholes and ruts in the road much faster than him. After an afternoon of riding with us the poor bloke seemed shattered, and he looked very relieved when we stopped for a well earnt drink and a bowl of chunky lamb soup.
======================================
Total Distance Cycled : 4273km
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 52km
Ascent : 530m
Time Cycling : 4h 03
Journey Time : 7h 10
Average Speed : 12.7 km/h
Hotel : N 40°20'58.2" E 19°58'28.6"
======================================

Lushnje to Ballsh

We were able to make good speed along the plain in the morning to the town of Fier despite the road bing under construction. More realistically it was in a state of utter destruction. At this point we headed away from the costal plain and into the hills towards Greece. The countryside was an industrial ruin. This is the area where Albania extracts its poor quality crude oil and ancient oil deriks pumped languidly beside the road. The streams and small lakes were all obviously contaminated and a sulphurous smell wafted on the breeze. We've passed by an inordinate number of wedding parties in Albania and today bing Sunday it reached fever pitch. Every self respecting roadside restaurant was hosting a brash and garish nuptial feast and wedding convoys added to the already congested roads. An Albanian wedding cavalcade consists of numberous cars all bedecked in white ribbons, bows and hearts, the gaudier the better. The front car inevitably has a chap hanging out the window filming the procession with an enormous video camera. We waved heartily, wanting a feature in the edited wedding highlights video. After much fraught searching and a heavy session of haggling we finally secured a hotel room. The staff, an ex policeman and his wife were as friendly and welcoming as it's possible to be. An enjoyable evening for us all was spendt miming and drawing the various details of our lives and countries for each other. Albanian non verbal communication is so incredibly different from our own and this caused much hillarity and confusion. In the morning when we left our host insisted Luke join him in a shot of noxious home brew to help him on his way before giving him a bottle of the stuff as a parting gift.
======================================
Total Distance Cycled : 4221km
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 61km
Ascent : 295m
Time Cycling : 4h 07
Journey Time : 6h
Average Speed : 15 km/h
Hotel : N 40°35'58.8" E 19°44'09.4"
======================================

Kruje to Lushnje

Fully restored after a couple of days respite, we took advantage of the flat terrain and favourable weather and got some miles under our belt. Ended up in a shoddy hotel. When checking the room prior to agreeing to take it, as is the custom here, Luke failed to notice that the toilet had no cistern. When this was later pointed out to the hotel staff they didn't appear to this it was a problem.
======================================
Total Distance Cycled : 4160km
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 93km
Ascent : 106m
Time Cycling : 4h 48
Journey Time : 7h 20
Average Speed : 19.3 km/h
Hotel : N 40°57'24.7" E 19°41'10.0"
======================================

Lezhe to Kruje

Continued south along a road that threaded between the mountains and the plain. The road carried alot of traffic but the surface resembled that of the moon, and the endless mini buses weren't able to go fast enough to be a menace. Mid morning we encountered a group of five Polish cycle tourers. Unusually we all stopped to chat, excited to see fellow travellers in the wilds of Albania. After swapping stories of road conditions in either direction we went on our separate ways. The last part of the day saw us climbing steadily into the mountains. With both of us feeling limp we went to a roadside cafe to get some drinks. Our gestured conversation was made all the more difficult by the fact that Albanians shake their head when they mean yes, and nod for no! AFter utterly confusing each other we managed to get som water, it being one of the only Albanian words we have mastered so far. We climbed some more to end up in one of the only towns in the country not entirely made of concrete, having retained some of its old buildings. Planning to visit the bazaar and castle on a day off tomorrow.
======================================
Total Distance Cycled : 4067km
======================================
Daily Distance Cycled : 56km
Ascent : 595m
Time Cycling : 4h 15
Journey Time : 6h 30
Average Speed : 13.2km/h
Hotel : N 41°30'35.3" E 19°47'38.6"
======================================

Mjede to Lezhe

Set off from our oasis and decided to take small roads instead of the newly built highway. The tarmac predictably ran out after a few hundred meters, and the road turned into the "strada bruta" that the locals hed described. The road was not the straight single road as shown on our map but a myriad web of dirt tracks with no signposts. Luckily their was plenty of people about to help us on our way. When aske directions they eagerly discussed the various options with a few random questions of their own thrown in, like "are you married" and "why not". Albania seemed more picuresque as there was less rubbish down these side roads away from the towns. We arrived in Lezhe and had lunch with Luke feeling a bit under the weather. After much trouble ordering food we ended up with a plate of greasy kebab meat each which did not help. Yet again we were suprised by the hospitality of Albanians when a man on another table offered to pay for our meal and would not takeno for an answer. With Luke now feeling weak and waffy we booked into the nearest hotel. After a rest we ventured out to find an internet cafe to update the blog as both phones are refusingto work. The main street of the town was closed in the evening and what seemed like the whole population was busy ambling up and down people watching.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 4011km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 31
Ascent : 40
Time Cycling : 2 05
Journey Time : 3h
Average Speed : 15.1 km/h
Hotel : N 41°46'47.3" E 19°38'41.8"
==========================

Shkoder to Mjede

We were eaten alive by mysterious creatures during the night in our grotty hotel. One bit Callie on the lip and caused a reaction, making it swell up and look like a ducks bill. Others bit us both on the hands making them feel like they were on fire but leaving no mark. Checked out of there sharpish feeling very bleary after our less than relaxing respite. Set off across town in search of coffe to perk us up, and our mood was improved slightly when another cafe owner refused payment for our drinks. Found the correct route out of town, but soon roadsigns became nonexistent and we passed through many unnamed hamlets on the rough crumbling road. At least this slowed the traffic down and kept us alert. As we passed through the villages we caused quite a sensation, everyone called a greeting and small boys raced alongside us on their rickety bikes paying no attention to oncoming traffic. Stopped for a late lunch, and rather than trying to order from the undeciferable menu we pointed to the adjacent table and ended up with delicious lamb soup. After our hearty meal we realised how tired we were. As luck would have it the restaurant was also a clean cheap hotel. The only boy in the village who spoke English was fetched to help in the negotiations and much fuss was made of getting our bikes and bags inside. We were given a plate of fresh figs and were able to have our first bath since leaving home much to Callie's delight and Luke's horror. Over dinner another English speaker was called over to ensure all our needs were being met and explain that the electricity would be cut at 11pm. Most of Albania's electricity is provided by ancient hydro schemes, and little rain in summer means little electricity so ratioining takes place. In the event we were fast asleep before this was a problems.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3979km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 22km
Ascent : 30m
Time Cycling : 1h 35
Journey Time : 2h
Average Speed : 14.4 km/h
Hotel : N 42°00'05.0" E 19°36'57.7"
==========================

Bar to Shkoder

Finally mangaed to find a quiet Montenegran road as we struck towards the Albanian border. After an initial climb we coasted the last 15km towards the customs post, slightly nervous of what we might find in our next destination. We were certainly glad to be on bikes as there was a queue of more than 100 cars at the border which we skirted without a hint of guilt, saving at least a 3hour wait. Having completed the formalities we continued into Albania. We immediately saw the remnants of the old communist bunkers which litter the country, a reminder of the paranoia which once reigned here. At first little else seemed different to Montenegro except a few mosques built after the collapse of the atheist communist regime. That was until we reached the outskirts of Shkodra. There we saw a shanty town full of heaps of rubbish and scavenging animals and children. Some of the kids cheekily tried to hitch a lift on our panniers after trying to pinch our solar pannel, when we were forced to queue to cross an ancient rickety wooden bridge. We entered the town past more reminders of the old regime in the form of statues of partisan warriors and workers heroes. Again we were befriended, this time by a cafe owner who gave us free coffee and escorted us to a hotel to help us secure a room. Our day was rounded off by a power and water cut which lasted a few hours, in which time we wandered the town and listened to the call to prayer in the central mosque. Fortunately the water was restored by the time we returned and we were able to enjoy a freezing shower in our dirty bathroom
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3957km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 52km
Ascent : 273m
Time Cycling : 3h 35
Journey Time : 5h
Average Speed : 14.3 km/h
Hotel : N 42°04'13.2" E 19°30'53.4"
==========================

Budva to Bar

Got up early to get out of the grotty campsite. Forced to buy water for the first time as all that was available was more dead sea than evian. Followed the coast southwards with mountains on our left and cliffs down to the sea to the right. Not a flat piece of ground all day, but constantly climbing over a series of bluffs only to coeast back down again. Many tunnels and crazy overtaking kept the route interesting. Drivers here honk their horn at any opportunity, it's hard to tell if it's a greeting or an obscenity, or just to warn us that they're about to try and run us off the road. Headed for Bar and the last camping opportunity before Albania, only to find that both campsites no longer existed. Tried to find a room instead, but had no lick as the place was heaving with Serbian and Russian tourists. Kept asking in every place with a room to let sign, and switched tactics, asking for somewhere to put up our tent when the usual fully booked answer was given. Eventually found someone who spoke good enough English and could decipher our request, although he had no garden we gound ourselves being foisted on his bemused neighbour. He soon warmed to us when he saw our bikes, and we managed to communicate in mutually broken German that we had riden all the way from England. We provided him and his extended family with the evenings entertainment of watching us put our tent up underneath their lemon and pomegranite trees. We were then plied with coffee and alcohol while carrying out some more mimed conversation, while the kids watched Montenegran stars in their eyes.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3905km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 51km
Ascent : 495m
Time Cycling : 4h 20
Journey Time : 6h 30
Average Speed : 11.7 km/h
Campsite : N 42°06'36.4" E 19°05'10.8"
==========================

Zelenika to Budva

A cooling breeze took the edge off the heat today as we rode south and east along the coast of Montenegro. We began the day circling an impresive enclosed bay taking a ferry which was free for cyclists across its narrowest part. Shortly before this we hard our first mechanical ploblem of the trip with Luke's cranks coming apart. All was not as bad as it appeared though and after a quick fix we were underway again. We decided to have a short day in order to break ourselves gently into the rididng again. On arrival at the campsite things seamed a bit grubby but not too bad. How wrong first impressions can be. The showers as far as they can be called that were as briney as the drinking water and completely out in the open. The toilets were a row of stinking holes in the floor complete with overflowing bins of used loo paper. There appeared to be a ditch of raw sewerage running through the middle of the site, a thouht that was confirmed when we saw someone pumping a chemical toilet out into it. The refugee camp feel was completed by there being no shade, rubbish everywhere and a pack of ferral dogs! Apart from that it was very nice indeed!
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3854km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 37km
Ascent : 87m
Time Cycling : 2h 27
Journey Time : 4h 30
Average Speed : 15.1 km/h
Campsite : N 42°17'05.3" E 18°48'18.1"
==========================

Dubrovnik to Zelenika

After a long and relaxing break on the boat we finally made it back onto the road. The new leg of the trip was christened by a hairy ride through the crowded streets of Dubrovnik and up to the highway which clings to the mountains above the city. The traffic soon died down as we made our way through stifling heat towards the Montenegran border. We crossed the border and appeared to be the only people who did not have our luggage checked. Immediately we noticed the extra chaos and lack of wealth compared to Croatia. Rubbish was everywhere by the sides of the road and drivers communicated often with their horns. At our campsite the facilities were somewhat lacking but we spent the evening chatting with some Serbian guys who in their own words had a 'fettish' about England and everything was quite pleasant.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3817km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 56km
Ascent : 495m
Time Cycling : 4h 05
Journey Time : 7h 25
Average Speed : 13.6 km/h
Campsite : N 42°27'14.6" E 18°34'08.0"
==========================

Drage to Vodice

Short run down the coast to rendevous with the Soñadora. Rode all the way down the mooring pier, ignoring indignant shouts of the marina crew wanting to know where two scruffy cyclists thought they were going. Found Callie's Dad and Oliva and enjoyed another random meeting of familiar faces in far off places.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3760km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 27km
Ascent : 111m
Time Cycling : 1h 30
Journey Time : 1h 40
Average Speed : 18 km/h
Marina : N 43°45'28.9" E 15°46'34.8"
==========================

Razanac to Drage

Cycled on down the coast through more blazing heat but spared from the worst by a refreshing breeze.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3733km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 64km
Ascent : 275m
Time Cycling : 4h
Journey Time : 7h 30
Average Speed : 16 km/h
Campsite : N 43°53'22.8" E 15°32'11.3"
==========================

Novalja to Razanac

Spent another day at the campsite lazing on the beach and sea kyaking for Luke. Then set off to complete the ride down Pag Island and over a bridge to the mainland. The hottest day yet slowed us down. Bare rock abounded and shade was hard to find for breaks. The sound of crickets only seemed to make the heat more oppressive.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3669km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 54km
Ascent : 284m
Time Cycling : 3h 35
Journey Time : 6h 20
Average Speed : 15 km/h
Campsite : N 44°16'43.4" E 15°20'37.2"
==========================

Rab Town to Novalja

Up bright and early in order to catch a little taxi boat to the next island of Pag. Having negotiated a fare yesterday we met the boat at the quay in Rab and loaded up, our bikes propped in the stern. Fourty minutes later we landed on the sparsley populated northern tip of Pag. Each island now seems to be more arid than the last. Fragrant shrubs, twisted gnarled olive trees and monolithic dry stone walls lined the road. We made our way south through the heat of the day with the Adriatic to our right and the mainland mountains to our left. With not far to go and only a few days left until we rendevous with Callie's dad and the boat, we allowed ourselves a short day and relaxed in the shade in the afternoon.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3615km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 28km
Ascent : 245m
Time Cycling : 2h
Journey Time : 4h
Average Speed : 13.6 km/h
Campsite : N 44°32'18.9" E 14°53'09.5"
==========================

Lopar to Rab Town

A short simple trip downthe island to Rab Town. We visited this lovely medieval town on our last trip to Croatia. On that occasion an almighty storm ran a river through our tent and floated boats out of the harbour onto the pavement. The weather appears more benign this time, but we are ready if there is a repeat performance. Searched out a restaurant we remembered from last time to enjoy their delicious seafood platter again.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3586km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 14km
Ascent : 108m
Time Cycling : 56min
Journey Time : 56min
Average Speed : 15.3 km/h
Campsite : N 44°45'09.1" E 14°46'26.5"
==========================

Today we traversed the rest of Krk and took a ferry to Rab Island. Despite its diminutive siye Krk proved to be exceedingly steep. As we crossed its seemingly endless hills we surveyed a harsh, rocky landscape studded with stunted trees. Smells of wild thyme and an unidentified curry scented plant wafted on the wind. After a last hard earned summit, and a glorious sweep downhill towards the coast, we arrived at the ferry ticket office where they kindly radioed down to hold the ferry for us and we sped down the rest of the hill just in time to board. After a 45min crossing we disembarked on Rab Island and found the nearest campsite. Even bigger and more crowded then the last, but thankfully with more shade, the campsite resembled a small town with bar, restaurant and loads of shops including a butchers. It also had its own sandy beach which we headed to gratefully for another dip in the sea
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3572km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 42km
Ascent : 532m
Time Cycling : 3h 04
Journey Time : 5h 20
Average Speed : 13.6 km/h
Campsite : N 44°49'21.5" E 14°44'07.3"
==========================

Kostrena to Njivice

Struck south along the coast road. Had a rapid initiation into the driving manners of Balkan bus and lorry drivers, which to put it mildly are severly lacking. A strong wind and many climbs around bluffs and coves added spice to the morning. Crossing the bridge to Krk Island we discovered a cycle path which would make any British road planner proud. Despite the sign showing bikes and pedestrians happing going side by side the path was too narrow to even push a bike along let along ride. The sprial staircase in the middle made it totally impassable with our loads. After some comedy reversing we just cycled on the road and life was much simpler. Trudged through the heat of the day to our campsite, which despite being absolutely enormous was full to bursting. After scrounging a plot we rewarded ourselves with a swim in the Adriatic from the rocky campsite beach and the hardships of the day melted away.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3530km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 29km
Ascent : 205m
Time Cycling : 2h 07
Journey Time : 4h 40
Average Speed : 13.4 km/h
Campsite : N 45°10'22.1" E 14°32'41.7"
==========================

Skoflje to Kostrena

Continued following the Reka river (which literally means River river) eastwards to the main road at Ribincia. Stopped at a fruit stall to buy elevensies and were accosted by the owner of the café over the road who ran across to look at our bikes and quiz us on our tour. He dragged us back to his café and plied us with free coffee and pastries, while telling us of his planned cycle tour in the autumn when he shuts up his café at the end of the tourist season. Reluctantly we dragged ourselves away and were soon in familiar territory at the town of Illirska Bistrica as we had been there two years earlier on a previous cycle trip. Followed the same route as before to the Croatian border and enjoyed the 20km downhill to the coast at Rijeka. Peddaled on past the industrial town to arrive at the same campsite we had stayed in before. The Adriatic lay tantalisingly close at the bottom of a cliff. We will have to wait until tomorrow to dip a foot in the first sea we have seen since the Channel.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3502km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 74km
Ascent : 318m
Time Cycling : 4h 24
Journey Time : 6h 40
Average Speed : 16.6 km/h
Campsite : N 45°17'51.9" E 14°30'29.0"
========================== 

Ozeljan to Skoflje

Another disturbed nights sleep, this time courtesy of a paragliders party. Set off to climb up on to the rolling Karst plateau, in blazing sunshine. Stopped off at Stanjel, an almost Tuscan style hill town and got hopelessly lost in its twisting backstreets trying to find a café. Turned out there wasn't even a shop there, but very impressive expansive views. This limestone area is riddled with caves, and we headed to the most famous ones in Slovenia at Skocjan. At first we wondered how they had gained UNESCO status as the stalagtites didn't seem more impressive than others. But then we entered at the top of a huge underground gorge more than 100m tall and almost 1km long, which was quite staggeringly beautiful. At one point we crossed a bridge suspended high above the river, then wound our way back to the surface, where we luckily spotted an advert for a campsite just down the road, much nearer then we had though we would have to cycle. Were pleased to find we had stumbled upon an almost hidden campsite with very friendly hosts who gave us free cake and led us to the campsite with their dog, horse and goat following curiously. In contrast to the night before we had the whole place to ourselves with only the crickets to keep us awake.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3428km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 60km
Ascent : 539m
Time Cycling : 4h 25
Journey Time : 9h
Average Speed : 13.6 km/h
Campsite : N 45°39'19.1" E 14°01'29.4"
==========================

Tolmin to Ozelijan

Carried on following the Soca river till the afternon where we came within 50m of the Italian border. At this piont we turned east towards the Karst region. Stumbled upon a campsite populated by paraglider pilots and spent the evening watching as 30 or more landed right by their tents in the campsite itself.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3368km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 49km
Ascent : 270m
Time Cycling : 3h
Journey Time : 5h
Average Speed : 15.9 km/h
Campsite : N 45°56'30.1" E 13°43'05.0"
==========================

Kobarid to Tolmin

Spent another day in Kobarid as thunderstorms raged overhead. Finally set off and headed to the Tolminka Gorge, where we went for a hike. Stopped off in Tolmin to get supplies at the supermarket, and noticed a large amount of hippies milling around. Had our suspicions confirmed when we asked one of them and were told there was a festival just down the road. Decided we couldn't pass up the opportunity since it had fallen into our laps, whereas usually we're always a day too late for anything interesting. The small reggae festival was on the banks of the Soca river with one of the stages beautifully situated right on a beach. Managed to get on the local radio again, as we were interviewed by a roving reporter who wanted to know how their little festival comapred to english ones. Bands and DJ's all over cental Europe played a mix of music from classic reggae to some more funky fusion beats. Dancing was a welcome change to our usually quiet campsite routine. As it was a special occasion we even stayed up till midnight.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3319km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 27km
Ascent : 150m
Time Cycling : 2h
Journey Time : 4h
Average Speed : 13.8 km/h
Campsite : N 46°10'29.0" E 13°44'09.5"
==========================

Day off in Kobarid

Today Luke spent a happy afternoon on the Soca river kayaking. Not only did he get an individual lesson, but he had two instructors one of whom was a world championship competitor. We spent the rest of the evening in a café chatting with Darren, a Kiwi cycle tourist who's working as a trekking guide in the surrounding mountains. We were glad to at last find someone like minded to swap bike tales with.

Bovec to Kobarid

Hopped a short distance down the Soca valley to another campsite on the river bank. Planning to stay here an extra day so Luke can go kayaking on some of the best white water in Europe. Appreciated the short day as it was incredibly muggy, and later burst forth with an almighty thunderstorm which thankfully cleared the air and filled up the river nicely for Luke's adventure tomorrow.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3292km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 25km
Ascent : 106m
Time Cycling : 1h 30
Journey Time : 1h 40
Average Speed : 16.8 km/h
Campsite : N 46°15'03.5" E 13°35'12.3"
==========================

Gozd Martujek to Bovec

Up another mountain pass today even more steep and sustained than the last. After a few easy km the road then wound relentlessly skywards up 24 numbered switchbacks. We forgot that it was sunday, which was a bad day to choose to do this popular route. Unlike the last pass, where we were almost the only ones on the road, this time we were joined by a multitude of cyclists and hoards of muppets on motorbikes. Yet again the scenery was stunning, towering cliffs and jagged peaks loomed on all sides as we made our way up to the 1600m summit. Looking down the other side we could see the road dizzingly far below in the valley bottom and we eagerly allowed gravity to take over the effort and rolled on down. We continued down the Soca valley whose river bubbled beside the road with the now familiar turquiose water tempting us to swim. We arrived at our camp tired, hungry but well content.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3267km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 58km
Ascent : 1058m
Time Cycling : 5h
Journey Time : 9h
Average Speed : 11.8 km/h
Campsite : N 46°19'52.0" E 13°34'21.3"
==========================

Bled to Gozd Martujek

Left Bled after lunch for a short day to take us to the bottom of another mountain pass. Went through the edge of Triglav national park, following a B road that quickly turned from tarmac to gravel. The path wound its way through awe inspiring landscape, following a gently ascending valley with steep tree covered sides and precipitous grey peaks behind them. Ended the day at a campsite at the foot of a saw toothed ridge which loomed above us.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3208km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 38km
Ascent : 401m
Time Cycling : 3h
Journey Time : 5h 30
Average Speed : 12.4 km/h
Campsite : N 46°29'05.3" E 13°50'18.5"
==========================

Day off by Lake Bled

Spent two restful days camped by Lake Bled. Hiked up Vintgar gorge on a suspended wooden gangway that criss crossed the crystal clear water below. Also swam in Lake Bled, needing no more encouragement than a break in the clouds. Yet again we were treated to a nocturnal visitor. Awoke to the rustling of a hedgehog helping itself to Callie's favourite plum jam filled chocolate coated biscuits, which it apparently found irresistible too. It kept it's head buried in the packet even when we shone the torch on it. We weren't sure if it was stuck, or if it thought it was hiding from us, or if it was enjoying the snack too much to be disturbed.

Duplje to Bled

Lazy morning and a short day as we made our way to Lake Bled. A small but stunning alpine lake nestled under the Julian Alps. Even under heavy clouds in the pouring rain the turquoise water was clearly visible as we cyled around the lake to the campsite. Waiting for the storm to abate we were tempted by the smell eminating from the campsite restaurant and ate delicious trout with garlic, a welcome change from constant schnitzel.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3170km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 32km
Ascent : 332m
Time Cycling : 2h 31
Journey Time : 8h 15
Average Speed : 12.8 km/h
Campsite : N 46°21'39.9" E 14°04'33.1"
==========================

Gosseldorf to Duplje

Got up at 6am and set off swiftly in order to avoid the midday heat on the pass. We needn't have bothered though, as shortly after setting off we got thouroughly soaked. Hid from the rain in a café refueling on latte and toasted sandwiches. When we set off again the rain had stopped, and luckily we were left with some cloud cover which kept the sun off us and made the mountains look even more imposing. 30km and too many switchbacks to count got us to the top off Seeberg pass and the Slovenian border. We arrived at our first proper border control and a jolly Austrian guard provided us with a stamp in our passports. Sped down the other side through dramatic scenery, but not quite as fast as Luke would've liked as a very strong headwind halved our speed. The GPS maps abruptly ran out at the border, and we found it much slower to constantly stop and squint at the map. Found our way to the nearest campsite, which was still another 40km from from the pass, and gratefully collapsed into our thermarest chairs.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3137km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 74km
Ascent : 888m
Time Cycling : 5h 15
Journey Time : 8h 15
Average Speed : 14.1 km/h
Campsite : N 46°18'10.8" E 14°17'09.6"
==========================

Am Badsee to Gosseldorf

Glorious 40km downhill today. Arrived at another campsite by a lake, with the mountain pass looming over us.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3063m
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 68km
Ascent : 180m
Time Cycling : 3h 43
Journey Time : 6h 30
Average Speed : 18.3 km/h
Campsite : N 46°34'28.8" E 14°37'26.7"
==========================

Fischling to Am Badsee

Today was spent winding our way through increasingly picturesque wooded valleys. The hills around us grew into mountains as we headed towards the main bulk of the Alps. We gradually increased our altitude and had to haul ouselves up one final climb on a sometimes disturbingly busy road. Thankfully the traffic eased towards the end and we camped in a stunning location next to a lake and enjoyed the evening sun.

==========================

Total Distance Cycled : 2995m

==========================

Daily Distance Cycled : 61km

Ascent : 635m

Time Cycling : 5h

Journey Time : 7h 45

Average Speed : 12.2 km/h

Campsite : N 47°02'13.7" E 14°29'15.3"

==========================

Hinterberg to Fischling

Short ride today, as campsites are a bit sparse in this area. So we decided to stop at an internet café just before lunch and catch up on some emailing. Turned out we were the first cycling customers at a café that was trying to set up as a cyclist's rest stop, and the owner insisted on taking our photo for his new website. He had just bought the place with the proceeds of 10years as a waiter on a cruise ship, and kept leaving us in charge while he popped out to the shops. He insisted we stay for an all you can eat BBQ in our honour, and charged us only 2euros for massive plate fulls. He then called up his mate on the local radio station we were listening to, and got them to dedicate a song for us. After pressing some free icecreams in our hands and under charging us for our drinks he waved off on our way. A few kilometers down the road our jolly afternoon was marred by the realisation that in all excitement we had left the map at the café. Luke raced back to get it and on the return leg managed to aquire puncture number two of the trip. All was soon sorted though and we finished the day at a campsite that usually only caters for the over 50's, no change there then!
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2933m
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 41km
Ascent : 220m
Time Cycling : 2h 43
Journey Time : 8h 25
Average Speed : 15 km/h
Campsite : N 47°09'47.2" E 14°44'17.8"
==========================

Day Off. Lurgrotte Caves Peggau

Decided to satisisfy our troglodite leanings by visiting some more caves today. To get the caves meant negotiating public transport but after the experience gained on the mean streets of Vienna we felt we were up to the task. So after a bus, train, train combo we found ourselves ready to enter the depths. Our efforts were rewarded with a private tour as no one else had turned up. Our very cheery guide was no less enthusiastic as he showed us the subteerrainian highlights. Not least of which was a seriously stunted elder tree which has somehow managed to survive 19 years underground. It has grown with only an hours artificial light a day for 8 months of the year after it's seed found it's way into the cave during a flood. The rest of the day was spent living the highlife in our luxurious caravan.

Langenwang to Hinterberg

The rain had stopped in the night, but left a wreath of mist over the alpine foothills. This cleared gradually to reveal the tree clad mountains under a blazing sun. Today we followed an undulating river valley winding its way through the slopes. Just as we had climbed the last hill of the day, and passed the first sign for our campsite the inevitable afternoon storm darkened the sky and the wind picked up to buffet our bicycles. We then found the road blocked by several pine trees felled by the tempestuous wind and the policeman supervising the clearup operation tried to make us turn back and cycle a very long way round. We decided to stay and watch the firemen which turned out to be a wise choice as they made short shrift of hacking the trees up with chainsaws, and 10 minutes later we were on our way again. Lucky we didn't have to wait any longer as the rain didn't wait any longer either and just as we turned into the campsite it even started to hail. A very friendly campsite owner managed to pursuade us to rent a caravan for the night as it was only a few euros more than a tent place, and even threw free showers into the bargain.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2888m
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 62km
Ascent : 319m
Time Cycling : 4h 17
Journey Time : 7h 45
Average Speed : 14.4km/h
Campsite : N 47°21'40.0" E 15°03'57.3"
==========================

Wiener Neustadt to Langenwang

If I were a sports commentator, I would call today a game of two halves. We spent the morning relentlessly climbing evermore steeply in blazing sunshine. Sweat poured and our faces slowly turned pinker. Then, just before we got to the summit at the ski resort of Semmering, the heavens opened. At first we were grateful for the cooling rain, but once we began to speed down the other side of the mountain and the rain turned needle sharp we were suddenly freezing. To top off our luck when we were just short of our destination Callie got her first ever puncture, and the first this trip.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2826km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 67km
Ascent : 764m
Time Cycling : 4h 55
Journey Time : 8h 45
Average Speed : 13.5km/h
Campsite : N 47°34'07.8" E 15°37'10.6"
==========================

Kalksburg to Wiener Neustadt

Were brought back down to earth with a bang at the campsite when a large group of unruly schoolkids set up their vast tent circle within 2 feet of us. Although this did provide us with amusement at first as they spent a good hour wrestling with tents as they tried to put them up. We were less amused to be woken at 1am to the sound of one of them vomiting right next to our bikes, and being kept awake by their loud nattering while listening to music on their mobile phones. All this resulted in a late start, but we eventually set off south in the direction of the alps more than slightly concerned about hills. We skirted round the Wienner Wald, Vienna forest, and crawled up a small hill to gain a spectacular view of Vienna behind us and then a large plain with daunting hills in the distance infront, some of which were capped with snow.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2609km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 51km
Ascent : 288m
Time Cycling : 3h 34
Journey Time : 6h 15
Average Speed : 14.2km/h
Campsite : N 47°47'16.7" E 16°14'06.5"
==========================

Vienna to Kalksburg

Hi Blog Fans, we're back on the road after a lovely week in Vienna. Sorry for the blackout but we were having far too good a time to blog. Spent a whirlwind week with Callie's Mum & David and also Oma (that's granny in German) and cousin Rose. Visited all the places that Oma (a genuine Vienese) used to frequent, and met some relatives aswell. Highlights included the luxury hotel, a michelin star restaurant, prancing horses at the Spanish riding school and more art, churches and palaces than you could shake a stick at. Also enjoyed spending time in Vienese coffee houses drinking icecream coffees and eating cake. The food was also a hit with dumplings sweet and savoury featuring heavily, and aslo sitting heavily in our stomachs. After an extra night and one last visit to the café that Callie's great Grandma used to meet her friends in every day, we tore ourselves away and set off on rusty legs. Decided to take it easy and just made it out of the city limits, which was a hard enough task with all the navigating through the suburbs.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2708km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 11km
Campsite : N 48°08'58.0" E 16°18'00.4"
==========================

Krems to Klosterneuburg

We have arrived at the outskirts of Vienna. Awaiting our grand arrival tomorrow.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2679km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 70km
Ascent : 53m
Time Cycling : 4h 18
Journey Time : 6h 15
Average Speed : 16.3km/h
Campsite : N 48°18'39.1" E 16°19'40.5"
==========================

Grein to Krems

A hot muggy sticky day. Dark thunderclouds chasing us all day, which we managed to keep behind us. Put the tent up just in time before spots of chubby rain started to fall. This quickly turned into an almighty downpour with thunder and lightening crashing directly overhead. We sat in the tent marooned on our thermarests watching the water gradually puddle in the awnings and creep inwards and under the tent. The HubbaHubba did us proud though and remained dry whilst the tent next door to us was ripped from all but one peg by the wind and snapped a pole. Once the storm subsided we found our neighbours attempting to dry their saturated belongings. Luke fixed their tent pole with some of our precious duct tape, again we were rescuing Americans.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2609km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 86km
Ascent : 137m
Time Cycling : 4h 34
Journey Time : 7h 15
Average Speed : 18.9km/h
Campsite : N 48°24'13.1" E 15°35'31.7"
==========================

Linz to Grein

More blazing sun and cooling headwind today. Passed through an area full of apple and pear orchards this afternoon, which get made into the local cider called Most. Stopped at one of the Mostelries to try the strong clear cider. It wasn't up to much and tasted more like a ropey homebrewed wine than cider, but at least it kept our legs oiled. Seem to have stumbled on a campsite full of Brits in mobilehomes. At least the ones next to us are Northerners who used to cycle tour in their youth and have a Thorn tandem strapped to the back of their camper. Also means we can communicate with them well enough to beg some washing powder off them, so we might not pong quite so much when we get to the hotel in Vienna.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2522km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 60km
Ascent : 95m
Time Cycling : 3h 26
Journey Time : 7h
Average Speed : 17.4km/h
Campsite : N 48°13'29.9" E 14°51'11.1"
==========================

Kobling to Linz

A nasty headwind slowed us down today, but at least it cooled us slightly in the scorching heat. Whilst having a cold drink in Linz main square and perusing our map we noticed a campsite by a lake just out of town. Decided to head there instead of cycling on today. We're way ahead of schedule for meeting Callie's familiy in Vienna, and what better way to waste time than splashing around in some water on a boiling day.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2462km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 42km
Ascent : 54m
Time Cycling : 2h 41
Journey Time : 4h
Average Speed : 15.6km/h
Campsite : N 48°14'08.0" E 14°19'49.5"
==========================

Passau to Kobling

We started our journey at the three rivers confluence. Each river is a distinct colour. The Iltz a dark blue, the Inn a milky azur having come from the limestone Tyrol, whereas the Danube is a muddy brown having flowed through farmland. The Itlz gets swallowed up quite quickly, but the Inn and the Danube refuse to mix. The river remains bicoloured for about 7km, almost perfectly bisected. We slipped across the border into Austria after elevensies, and again we were surprised that the scenery changed in unison. Here the Danube cuts a torturous path through high wooden hills on either side. At one point it even does a u-turn, then carries on it's sinuous path eastwards

Straubing to Passau

Favourable winds and an early start meant that we had passed our proposed campsite by midday. We decided to put the bit between our teeth and head for Passau, the last German city before the border, helped along the way by numerous stops at cyclist cafes. Passau is a lovely old city kept that way due to the fact the it's built on peninsulars of land at the confluence of three rivers which prevents sprawling expansion. The three rivers arrive from different directions, and leave as one eastbound. Although the Inn, arriving from the Tyrol, is the widest and has come the furthest the Danube prevails and carries it's name downstream.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2358km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 98km
Ascent : 187m
Time Cycling : 5h 20
Journey Time : 8h 40
Average Speed : 18.3km/h
Campsite : N 48°34'54.9" E 13°28'21.9"
==========================

Regansburg to Straubing

On the cycle paths of Germany the weekend brings out the equivalent of Sunday drivers in the Lake District. The route is made treacherous by hoards of people exercising or bimbling along on their bikes oblivious to their surroundings. So called "Nordic Walking" is also popular here and unlike in the posters advertising the sport showing athletic figures striding purposefully, in reality this consists of couples ambling along whilst dragging skipoles behind them. These obstacles are mostly concentrated in areas close to habitation, so in spite of a sunny Sunday bringing out more than the usual numbers of exercisers we managed a good pace and arrived at our destination in plenty of time to go to the local Roman museum.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2260km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 61km
Ascent : 98m
Time Cycling : 3h 15
Journey Time : 4h
Average Speed : 18.5km/h
Campsite : N 48°53'37.6" E 12°34'25.3"
==========================

Neustadt to Regensburg

Cycled on downriver to a monastery which was serving award winning dark beer from one of the world's oldest breweries. It seemed a shame not to sample a Pope endorsed god beer, so found ourselves drinking before it was even elevensies. Fortunately there were long tables full of old ladies doing just the same with their huge stein mugs lined up infront of them. Took a boat from the monastery which barreled downstream a few km through the Donaudurchbruch which promised to be an amazing narrow limestone gorge, which we wouldn't have been able to see from the cycle path. In actuality it was something of a blink and miss it experience. The boat passed by a few limestone crags, then the river swifty widened again. Some might consider it cheating to skip some of the route in a boat, but there were plenty of other cycle tourers doing the same including a couple from St Bees. There was even a special section of the boat for parking bikes, and a man to help you push your bike on and off the ramp. When he attempted to manoever Luke's bike into place he exclaimed "Ouf! I've been working the boat for 20 years and that's the heaviest bike I've ever lifted" or something like it in German, to which Luke replied "You should try riding the thing".
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2199km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 50km
Ascent : 92m
Time Cycling : 5h
Journey Time : 6h 40
Average Speed : 16.6km/h
Campsite : N 49°01'40.8" E 12°03'31.7"
==========================

Nuberg to Neustadt

Thank you for the deluge of texts and phonecalls after the flooded Danube made it onto the bbc news. Despite your concerns we have not been washed away, infact our tent held up remarkably well and gets top marks. It must've been a slow news day as the flooding isn't as impressive as the high water marks from previous years that we've seen recorded on some of the houses. The biggest danger we faced was a cycling through a deeper than average puddle and getting our feet wet.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2149km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 59km
Ascent : 67m
Time Cycling : 3h 40
Journey Time : 6h 40
Average Speed : 15.9km/h
Campsite : N 48°49'04.0" E 11°46'13.4"
==========================

Dillingen to Nuberg

Sometime in the night the rain stopped and we awoke to a fine day. The Danube was a rushing, boiling torrent brown with mud and full of debris. It was at the top of its banks as it ran past the campsite. Had it rained anymore we may have been swimming for higher ground instead of contiuing our ride During the day we saw it had flooded quite impressivly in a number of places and counted ourselves lucky. In the evening we made our camp next to the river (fingers crossed!) by an impressive walled town full of brightly painted and very grand houses.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2090km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 74km
Ascent : 311m
Time Cycling : 4h 49
Journey Time : 6h 35
Average Speed : 15.4km/h
Campsite : N 48°44'23.7" E 11°11'13.5"
==========================

Rained off in Dillingen

The rain continues to pour and being rough, tough adventurous types we have stayed in the tent and out of the rain getting our pretty heads wet only to eat and visit the internet café.

Ersingen to Dillingen

Pissed with rain all day. Cold and soggy we plodded on.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 2016km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 79km
Ascent : 97m
Time Cycling : 5h 08
Journey Time : 7h
Average Speed : 15.2km/h
Campsite : N 48°34'08.4" E 10°30'07.0"
==========================

Simaringen to Ersingen

After a restfull sleep we continued along the the course of the Danube as winds its way towards Austria. The river has now left the confines of the gorge and flows though open fields once more. Tonight we find ourselves camped in the midst of a lifegaurd away weekend. The private site was already heaving but we were alotted a tiny piece of land to pitch our rent upon and use of their grotty portaloo.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1937km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 86km
Ascent : 207m
Time Cycling : 4h 44
Journey Time : 6h 50
Average Speed : 18.1km/h
Campsite : N 48°17'39.5" E 09°51'47.9"
==========================

Hausen to Simaringen

Woke in the middle of the night to a massive thunderstorm. We could see the lightening through the material of the tent, and the cracks of thunder were earsplitting as the sound reverberated off the linestone walls of the gorge. Just as we were drifting off again after the storm had passed, our neighbour's reinforcements arrived at the ungodly hour of 6:30am. Rather than waiting till a decent hour, they proceeded to unleash their children who rode around tooting their novelty bike horns and set up their large sprawling camp. At one point they even backed a trailer into a tight spot right next to our tent, slamming their car doors and rummaging in the trailer right next to our heads. All this resulted in us setting off rather sleepy, and as the heat of the day increased a campsite with a swimmingpool next to it materialised. We decided this was a sign and set camp early in order to go and snooze by the pool.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1851km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 22km
Ascent : 108m
Time Cycling : 1h 39
Journey Time : 2h
Average Speed : 13.2km/h
Campsite : N 48°05'01.6" E 09°12'29.6"
==========================

Donaueschingen to Hausen

Set out along the Danube which at this point is slow and shallow and chocked with pond weed and lillies. For short sections it gives up alltogether dissapearing underground only to resurface a few hundred meters later. At first we followed through open farmland untill the river swung sharply around a bend and headed down a steep sided valley flanked by rugged limestone outcops and spires, some of which being topped by small castles. The unsurfaced track climbed up and down short steep hills as it followed downstream. We have ended the day at a campsite which is begining to resemble a refugee camp as a legion of German campers cram in for the start of another bank holiday. We are hoping we will not be parked on by a caravan in our sleep.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1829km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 68km
Ascent : 251m
Time Cycling : 4h 11
Journey Time : 7h
Average Speed : 16.3km/h
Campsite : N 48°05'05.9" E 09°02'25.1"
==========================

Frieburg to Donnaueschingen

Left Frieburg and began to climb ever more steeply. Our pace slowed to a crawl, not being used to hills, which allowed us to appreciate the tree covered hills and banks of wild lupins and big fat daisies. Finally got to the top and were rewarded with our first sweeping vistas. Our efforts also earnt us a glorious 30km downhill. Made it all the way to Donauquelle which is the spring that's the scource of the Danube. We had expected to follow as the spring turned into a stream, then into a bigger and bigger river, but it turns out the spring immediately empties into a nearby river, and the two then become the Danube. We weren't quite sure how this qualifies Donaueschingen as the rivers source, and were left somewhat disapointed.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1761km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 66km
Ascent : 902m
Time Cycling : 4h 53
Journey Time : 8h 20
Average Speed : 13.3km/h
Campsite : N 47°56'14.3" E 08°32'01.9"
==========================

Marckolsheim to Frieburg

Left France and the Rhine today, and turned west towards the Black Forest. We can see the tree covered hills on the horizon that lie between us and the Danube!
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1694km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 60km
Ascent : 95m
Time Cycling : 4h 07
Journey Time : 6h 20
Average Speed : 14.6km/h
Campsite : N 47°59'31.6" E 07°52'27.0"
==========================

Strasbourg to Marckolsheim

Difficulty navigating through the city meant that we got a bit of a tour of Strasbourg in the morning. The picturesque centre and impressive buildings more than made up for its pikey campsite. Followed a lovely straight canal out into the countryside, but made slow progress as it was the hottest day yet. So hot we didn't even feel hungry, which has to be a first. Finished the day on quiet country lanes as we headed back towards the Rhine. Ended up in another dodgy campsite, this time a deserted derelict place charging extortionate prices. We coughed up the money with a grumble, as our tired legs didn't fancy cycling on.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1634km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 69km
Ascent : 48m
Time Cycling : 4h 33
Journey Time : 8h 20
Average Speed : 15.1km/h
Campsite : N 48°08'58.5" E 07°35'47.5"
==========================

Lauterbourg to Strasbourg

Peddaled fast with the American at our heels, as we didn't want to spend all day with him. He'd been asking where we were going the night before, and said he was thinking of heading into France but his plans were fluid. Had visions of being followed up the Rhine like when we were stalked from Utah to Colorado by Ashley, and lo and behold he rolled into Strasbourg campsite 2hours after us. Our mood wasn't helped by the hoards of shifty migrant workers that inhabited the campsite. We were surprised to find out they were Swiss when they started to pester us to use our mobile phone, and kept asking to borrow our bikes. Didn't think they had Chavs in Switzerland.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1565km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 84km
Ascent : 48m
Time Cycling : 4h 33
Journey Time : 6h 25
Average Speed : 18.3km/h
Campsite : N 48°34'31.9" E 07°42'54.4"
==========================

Weiherhof to Lauterbourg (France)

No complaints today as the sun was out in full force and there was plenty of signage on the roads. Decided to keep on the right bank of the Rhine and head into France. Our hunch was right and as soon as we crossed the border we found a lovely campsite by a lake for about half the usual price. We were joined shortly after by an American, who was suffering from verbal diarhorea which is a common affliction in lone cyclists. He seemed pleasant enough and after making sure that he wasn't pro bush we invited him to dinner as he'd failed to make it to the supermarket that we'd rushed round just as it was closing. We also shared our very palatable €1.60 bottle of wine, and borrowed his map to try and calculate our route cross country from the Rhine to the source of the Danube. Our new friend proceeded to name campsites and their prices all down the Danube. The campsite cat provided more amusement, when it wandered over to sniff at the American's tent and then proceeded to turn round and spray piss to scent mark the new addition to its territory. He took it good humouredly enough and chased the cat off before it could do the same to our tent.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1481km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 76km
Ascent : 96m
Time Cycling : 4h 30
Journey Time : 7h 45
Average Speed : 16.8km/h
Campsite : N 48°58'15.5" E 08°09'55.5"
==========================

Worms to Weiherhof

The gods are still against us, although mercifully it didn't rain today and by the afternoon we felt the first sun on us in what seems like weeks. In an attempt to improve our karma we studiously avoided running over the slugs which like to migrate across the cycle paths in these parts. Previously we had been taking delight in squishing them (veg gardener would approve) but then also realised this was an error as this splatters slug innards over our bike frame and bottle cages. Despite our efforts to improve our luck, the cycle path signposts seemed to be directing us in a holding pattern around Ludwigshofen. We ended up cycling about 20km in a wide circle skirting round the city, which should have been just a few km if we'd gone in a straight line through the centre. At least the route was a nice one, through woods and fields and some German suburbia. In the afternoon we actually passed an open campsite, but decided it was too early to stop and headed on to put some distance between ourselves and Ludwigshofen. We thought we'd be alright as there are a mulitude of campsites marked on the map in this area. We then proceeded to navigate to 5 private caravan parks and 2 non existant campsites before finally finding one which was open to tents.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1405km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 69km
Ascent : 143m
Time Cycling : 4h 30
Journey Time : 6h 30
Average Speed : 15.4km/h
Campsite at : N 49°20'34.7" E 08°26'26.6"
==========================

Nierstein to Worms

This morning we were reluctant to go into the rain and were more keen to enjoy the comforts of the B&B. Eventually set out at midday on the short ride to the only campsite on the Rhine withining striking distance. As we we rode we could not understand why everything was shut and streets were deserted. It felt more like a sunday than a thusrday. We were later to find out that it was the ascention day holiday which Germans obviously take quite seriously. We could not believe our eyes when we saw the campsite was derilict. Crossed the bridge back into Worms to find the youth hostel full and the tourist information closed and were left wondering what we have done to deserve such luck. Eventully tracked down a hotel and gave our budget it's second thrashing in two days.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1336km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 41km
Ascent : 57m
Time Cycling : 2h 52
Average Speed : 14.2km/h
Hotel : N 49°37'50.1" E 08°21'44.7"
==========================

Rudesheim Am Rhine to Nierstein

Slow going today as the cycle path was unpaved and badly signposted. We had thought the Rhine cycle route was the Mecca of cycle touring, and we have certainly passed by many pannier laden bicycles most of them heading downstream in the opposite direction to us, but the path doesn't follow the river very closely and has sporadic signposting even at vital times. At one piont it even failed to provide a detour or warning when after riding for about 4km along a path our route was barred by road works. Rather than retracing our route we managed to push our bikes and gear up a steep embankment and around the blockage with some difficulty. We also helped a german woman to do the same. Wet and weary we arrived at what we thought would be our final destination only to find the campsite on the map was a members only camping club. After consulting the map and discovering the next campsite was over 30km distant we decided to double back on our route for a few kilometers and cross the river by ferry. Having done this we were faced with yet another private site and were unable to camp there either. We then had to begrudgingly recross the river on the ferry and head to the nearby village where we ended up in a very pleasant B&B glad to finally be out of the rain and able to relax.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1295km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 65km
Ascent : 107m
Time Cycling : 4h 48
Average Speed : 13.5km/h
B&B : N 49°52'25.9" E 08°20'16.4"
==========================

Koblenz to Rudesheim am Rhine

The weather gods are still not with us. Yet another fine evening turned to insipid rain and dark clouds by morning. We didn't let the damp in the air dampen our spirits and so set off on the next leg of our journey upstream along the Rhine. As we followed the fast flowing, turbulent river past islands, skerries and sandbars we leapfrogged the same massive barge all day. At the end of the day as the sun began to make an appearance we crossed the river on a flat topped ferry and made our camp.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 1230km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 74km
Ascent : 88m
Time Cycling : 4h 22
Average Speed : 17km/h
Campsite : N 49°58'40.0" E 07°56'20.4"
==========================