Monday, August 06, 2007

Shkoder to Mjede

We were eaten alive by mysterious creatures during the night in our grotty hotel. One bit Callie on the lip and caused a reaction, making it swell up and look like a ducks bill. Others bit us both on the hands making them feel like they were on fire but leaving no mark. Checked out of there sharpish feeling very bleary after our less than relaxing respite. Set off across town in search of coffe to perk us up, and our mood was improved slightly when another cafe owner refused payment for our drinks. Found the correct route out of town, but soon roadsigns became nonexistent and we passed through many unnamed hamlets on the rough crumbling road. At least this slowed the traffic down and kept us alert. As we passed through the villages we caused quite a sensation, everyone called a greeting and small boys raced alongside us on their rickety bikes paying no attention to oncoming traffic. Stopped for a late lunch, and rather than trying to order from the undeciferable menu we pointed to the adjacent table and ended up with delicious lamb soup. After our hearty meal we realised how tired we were. As luck would have it the restaurant was also a clean cheap hotel. The only boy in the village who spoke English was fetched to help in the negotiations and much fuss was made of getting our bikes and bags inside. We were given a plate of fresh figs and were able to have our first bath since leaving home much to Callie's delight and Luke's horror. Over dinner another English speaker was called over to ensure all our needs were being met and explain that the electricity would be cut at 11pm. Most of Albania's electricity is provided by ancient hydro schemes, and little rain in summer means little electricity so ratioining takes place. In the event we were fast asleep before this was a problems.
==========================
Total Distance Cycled : 3979km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 22km
Ascent : 30m
Time Cycling : 1h 35
Journey Time : 2h
Average Speed : 14.4 km/h
Hotel : N 42°00'05.0" E 19°36'57.7"
==========================

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Well, you battered and bitten Slow Travellers take heart - its good to see from today's blogs that even in such poor areas there are individuals willing to extend kindness and generosity and do something extra to make you feel welcome. Its a bit humbling really and makes one wonder whether if (when) Albanians pitch up on bikes in a lovely leafy English village with a similar story of long distance travel across continents if the same welcome would be extended...... ? we can only hope so.

Anonymous said...

Great to see the Slow Travellers are back on line again. Attack of the bed bugs - very unpleasant - photos very graphic ugh!! I hope the lip has returned to normal proportions now Callie, but otherwise good photos - keep spinning those wheels. Montenegro will most definitely not be my next holiday of choice - simply don't see it making the Kuoni brochure anytime soon. Take care both
XX

Anonymous said...

Sounds like you have had a rough few days - isn't it wonderful when people are welcoming and helpful - I'm not so sure you would get that in the UK or USA!

One day you should try cycling across and around the USA.....

We had a wonderful weekend of camping - dirt, hiking, cooking over campfires - one night was spent in the middle of the campsite. hThe 2nd night we had a prime site - ate dinner by an open fire and looked and the multitude of stars that you can only see in the middle of no-where it was beautiful.

love
BigSis