Nuberg to Neustadt

Thank you for the deluge of texts and phonecalls after the flooded Danube made it onto the bbc news. Despite your concerns we have not been washed away, infact our tent held up remarkably well and gets top marks. It must've been a slow news day as the flooding isn't as impressive as the high water marks from previous years that we've seen recorded on some of the houses. The biggest danger we faced was a cycling through a deeper than average puddle and getting our feet wet.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2149km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 59km
Ascent : 67m
Time Cycling : 3h 40
Journey Time : 6h 40
Average Speed : 15.9km/h
Campsite : N 48°49'04.0" E 11°46'13.4"
==========================

Dillingen to Nuberg

Sometime in the night the rain stopped and we awoke to a fine day. The Danube was a rushing, boiling torrent brown with mud and full of debris. It was at the top of its banks as it ran past the campsite. Had it rained anymore we may have been swimming for higher ground instead of contiuing our ride During the day we saw it had flooded quite impressivly in a number of places and counted ourselves lucky. In the evening we made our camp next to the river (fingers crossed!) by an impressive walled town full of brightly painted and very grand houses.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2090km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 74km
Ascent : 311m
Time Cycling : 4h 49
Journey Time : 6h 35
Average Speed : 15.4km/h
Campsite : N 48°44'23.7" E 11°11'13.5"
==========================

Rained off in Dillingen

The rain continues to pour and being rough, tough adventurous types we have stayed in the tent and out of the rain getting our pretty heads wet only to eat and visit the internet café.

Ersingen to Dillingen

Pissed with rain all day. Cold and soggy we plodded on.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2016km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 79km
Ascent : 97m
Time Cycling : 5h 08
Journey Time : 7h
Average Speed : 15.2km/h
Campsite : N 48°34'08.4" E 10°30'07.0"
==========================

Simaringen to Ersingen

After a restfull sleep we continued along the the course of the Danube as winds its way towards Austria. The river has now left the confines of the gorge and flows though open fields once more. Tonight we find ourselves camped in the midst of a lifegaurd away weekend. The private site was already heaving but we were alotted a tiny piece of land to pitch our rent upon and use of their grotty portaloo.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1937km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 86km
Ascent : 207m
Time Cycling : 4h 44
Journey Time : 6h 50
Average Speed : 18.1km/h
Campsite : N 48°17'39.5" E 09°51'47.9"
==========================

Hausen to Simaringen

Woke in the middle of the night to a massive thunderstorm. We could see the lightening through the material of the tent, and the cracks of thunder were earsplitting as the sound reverberated off the linestone walls of the gorge. Just as we were drifting off again after the storm had passed, our neighbour's reinforcements arrived at the ungodly hour of 6:30am. Rather than waiting till a decent hour, they proceeded to unleash their children who rode around tooting their novelty bike horns and set up their large sprawling camp. At one point they even backed a trailer into a tight spot right next to our tent, slamming their car doors and rummaging in the trailer right next to our heads. All this resulted in us setting off rather sleepy, and as the heat of the day increased a campsite with a swimmingpool next to it materialised. We decided this was a sign and set camp early in order to go and snooze by the pool.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1851km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 22km
Ascent : 108m
Time Cycling : 1h 39
Journey Time : 2h
Average Speed : 13.2km/h
Campsite : N 48°05'01.6" E 09°12'29.6"
==========================

Donaueschingen to Hausen

Set out along the Danube which at this point is slow and shallow and chocked with pond weed and lillies. For short sections it gives up alltogether dissapearing underground only to resurface a few hundred meters later. At first we followed through open farmland untill the river swung sharply around a bend and headed down a steep sided valley flanked by rugged limestone outcops and spires, some of which being topped by small castles. The unsurfaced track climbed up and down short steep hills as it followed downstream. We have ended the day at a campsite which is begining to resemble a refugee camp as a legion of German campers cram in for the start of another bank holiday. We are hoping we will not be parked on by a caravan in our sleep.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1829km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 68km
Ascent : 251m
Time Cycling : 4h 11
Journey Time : 7h
Average Speed : 16.3km/h
Campsite : N 48°05'05.9" E 09°02'25.1"
==========================

Frieburg to Donnaueschingen

Left Frieburg and began to climb ever more steeply. Our pace slowed to a crawl, not being used to hills, which allowed us to appreciate the tree covered hills and banks of wild lupins and big fat daisies. Finally got to the top and were rewarded with our first sweeping vistas. Our efforts also earnt us a glorious 30km downhill. Made it all the way to Donauquelle which is the spring that's the scource of the Danube. We had expected to follow as the spring turned into a stream, then into a bigger and bigger river, but it turns out the spring immediately empties into a nearby river, and the two then become the Danube. We weren't quite sure how this qualifies Donaueschingen as the rivers source, and were left somewhat disapointed.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1761km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 66km
Ascent : 902m
Time Cycling : 4h 53
Journey Time : 8h 20
Average Speed : 13.3km/h
Campsite : N 47°56'14.3" E 08°32'01.9"
==========================

Marckolsheim to Frieburg

Left France and the Rhine today, and turned west towards the Black Forest. We can see the tree covered hills on the horizon that lie between us and the Danube!
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Total Distance Cycled : 1694km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 60km
Ascent : 95m
Time Cycling : 4h 07
Journey Time : 6h 20
Average Speed : 14.6km/h
Campsite : N 47°59'31.6" E 07°52'27.0"
==========================

Strasbourg to Marckolsheim

Difficulty navigating through the city meant that we got a bit of a tour of Strasbourg in the morning. The picturesque centre and impressive buildings more than made up for its pikey campsite. Followed a lovely straight canal out into the countryside, but made slow progress as it was the hottest day yet. So hot we didn't even feel hungry, which has to be a first. Finished the day on quiet country lanes as we headed back towards the Rhine. Ended up in another dodgy campsite, this time a deserted derelict place charging extortionate prices. We coughed up the money with a grumble, as our tired legs didn't fancy cycling on.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1634km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 69km
Ascent : 48m
Time Cycling : 4h 33
Journey Time : 8h 20
Average Speed : 15.1km/h
Campsite : N 48°08'58.5" E 07°35'47.5"
==========================

Lauterbourg to Strasbourg

Peddaled fast with the American at our heels, as we didn't want to spend all day with him. He'd been asking where we were going the night before, and said he was thinking of heading into France but his plans were fluid. Had visions of being followed up the Rhine like when we were stalked from Utah to Colorado by Ashley, and lo and behold he rolled into Strasbourg campsite 2hours after us. Our mood wasn't helped by the hoards of shifty migrant workers that inhabited the campsite. We were surprised to find out they were Swiss when they started to pester us to use our mobile phone, and kept asking to borrow our bikes. Didn't think they had Chavs in Switzerland.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1565km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 84km
Ascent : 48m
Time Cycling : 4h 33
Journey Time : 6h 25
Average Speed : 18.3km/h
Campsite : N 48°34'31.9" E 07°42'54.4"
==========================

Weiherhof to Lauterbourg (France)

No complaints today as the sun was out in full force and there was plenty of signage on the roads. Decided to keep on the right bank of the Rhine and head into France. Our hunch was right and as soon as we crossed the border we found a lovely campsite by a lake for about half the usual price. We were joined shortly after by an American, who was suffering from verbal diarhorea which is a common affliction in lone cyclists. He seemed pleasant enough and after making sure that he wasn't pro bush we invited him to dinner as he'd failed to make it to the supermarket that we'd rushed round just as it was closing. We also shared our very palatable €1.60 bottle of wine, and borrowed his map to try and calculate our route cross country from the Rhine to the source of the Danube. Our new friend proceeded to name campsites and their prices all down the Danube. The campsite cat provided more amusement, when it wandered over to sniff at the American's tent and then proceeded to turn round and spray piss to scent mark the new addition to its territory. He took it good humouredly enough and chased the cat off before it could do the same to our tent.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1481km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 76km
Ascent : 96m
Time Cycling : 4h 30
Journey Time : 7h 45
Average Speed : 16.8km/h
Campsite : N 48°58'15.5" E 08°09'55.5"
==========================

Worms to Weiherhof

The gods are still against us, although mercifully it didn't rain today and by the afternoon we felt the first sun on us in what seems like weeks. In an attempt to improve our karma we studiously avoided running over the slugs which like to migrate across the cycle paths in these parts. Previously we had been taking delight in squishing them (veg gardener would approve) but then also realised this was an error as this splatters slug innards over our bike frame and bottle cages. Despite our efforts to improve our luck, the cycle path signposts seemed to be directing us in a holding pattern around Ludwigshofen. We ended up cycling about 20km in a wide circle skirting round the city, which should have been just a few km if we'd gone in a straight line through the centre. At least the route was a nice one, through woods and fields and some German suburbia. In the afternoon we actually passed an open campsite, but decided it was too early to stop and headed on to put some distance between ourselves and Ludwigshofen. We thought we'd be alright as there are a mulitude of campsites marked on the map in this area. We then proceeded to navigate to 5 private caravan parks and 2 non existant campsites before finally finding one which was open to tents.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1405km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 69km
Ascent : 143m
Time Cycling : 4h 30
Journey Time : 6h 30
Average Speed : 15.4km/h
Campsite at : N 49°20'34.7" E 08°26'26.6"
==========================

Nierstein to Worms

This morning we were reluctant to go into the rain and were more keen to enjoy the comforts of the B&B. Eventually set out at midday on the short ride to the only campsite on the Rhine withining striking distance. As we we rode we could not understand why everything was shut and streets were deserted. It felt more like a sunday than a thusrday. We were later to find out that it was the ascention day holiday which Germans obviously take quite seriously. We could not believe our eyes when we saw the campsite was derilict. Crossed the bridge back into Worms to find the youth hostel full and the tourist information closed and were left wondering what we have done to deserve such luck. Eventully tracked down a hotel and gave our budget it's second thrashing in two days.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1336km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 41km
Ascent : 57m
Time Cycling : 2h 52
Average Speed : 14.2km/h
Hotel : N 49°37'50.1" E 08°21'44.7"
==========================

Rudesheim Am Rhine to Nierstein

Slow going today as the cycle path was unpaved and badly signposted. We had thought the Rhine cycle route was the Mecca of cycle touring, and we have certainly passed by many pannier laden bicycles most of them heading downstream in the opposite direction to us, but the path doesn't follow the river very closely and has sporadic signposting even at vital times. At one piont it even failed to provide a detour or warning when after riding for about 4km along a path our route was barred by road works. Rather than retracing our route we managed to push our bikes and gear up a steep embankment and around the blockage with some difficulty. We also helped a german woman to do the same. Wet and weary we arrived at what we thought would be our final destination only to find the campsite on the map was a members only camping club. After consulting the map and discovering the next campsite was over 30km distant we decided to double back on our route for a few kilometers and cross the river by ferry. Having done this we were faced with yet another private site and were unable to camp there either. We then had to begrudgingly recross the river on the ferry and head to the nearby village where we ended up in a very pleasant B&B glad to finally be out of the rain and able to relax.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1295km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 65km
Ascent : 107m
Time Cycling : 4h 48
Average Speed : 13.5km/h
B&B : N 49°52'25.9" E 08°20'16.4"
==========================

Koblenz to Rudesheim am Rhine

The weather gods are still not with us. Yet another fine evening turned to insipid rain and dark clouds by morning. We didn't let the damp in the air dampen our spirits and so set off on the next leg of our journey upstream along the Rhine. As we followed the fast flowing, turbulent river past islands, skerries and sandbars we leapfrogged the same massive barge all day. At the end of the day as the sun began to make an appearance we crossed the river on a flat topped ferry and made our camp.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1230km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 74km
Ascent : 88m
Time Cycling : 4h 22
Average Speed : 17km/h
Campsite : N 49°58'40.0" E 07°56'20.4"
==========================

Moselkern to Koblenz

Made it to the end of the Moselle river today. Arrived in Koblenz, where the Moselle flows into the Rhine, to find a campsite right at the confluence of the two rivers.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1156km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 39km
Ascent : 103m
Time Cycling : 2h 21
Average Speed : 16.6km/h
Campsite : N 50°21'58.3" E 07°36'13.9"
==========================

Cochem to Moselkern

Went for a trip down memory lane this morning as Luke spent a few holidays in Cochem as a child when his dad was stationed in Germany. Can it really have been 25 years ago already? Went to look at the pool where Luke won his one and only sporting gold medal in the water slide race. The fact that he was the only competitor in his age group doesn't diminish the glory. Wandered a bit around the town, then cycled a short distance to set up camp near Berg Eltz. Luke also remembered visiting castle Berg Eltz as a child, and it was well worth a return. The 2km walk through the woods felt strange and difficult to legs only used to cycling, and also served to keep the crowds away. The castle was all fairytale spires on the top of a small hill and full of tapestries and painted walls.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1117km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 24km
Ascent : 58m
Time Cycling : 1h 28
Average Speed : 16.4km/h
Campsite : N 50°11'22.5" E 07°22'02.7"
==========================

Bernkastel-Kues to Cochem

We thought the weather had improved yesterday evening, but it returned to bite us in the bum as the heavens opened and really chucked it down as soon as we set off this morning. I guess we should count ourselves lucky that at least it waited till after we had packed up the tent. Spent the day constantly removing and then putting our rain gear back on as the day alternated between sunshine and rain. Continued alongside the Moselle following its incredibly sinuous journey downstream. Cycle touring seems to be a geriatric passtime here in Germany. We're at least half the age of most parties we pass, and I'm sure we overtook some octogenarian cyclists today.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1092km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 86km
Ascent : 249m
Time Cycling : 5h 18
Average Speed : 16.2km/h
Campsite : N 50°09'28.1" E 07°10'26.1"
==========================

Day off in Bernkastel-Kues

100mph winds keep us trapped in tourist town. Decided not to attempt to cycle today, on waking to gale force winds.

Trier to Bernkastel-Kues

Thankfully no more rain today, giving us a chance to dry out. Our route downriver took us through some lovley German villages, and past row upon row of vinyards, most of them on impossibly steep slopes. The farmers have installed rollercoaster monorail tracks up the hills that they use to transport stuff to tend the vines with. Ended the day in a chocolate box picture postcard village and celebrated our first 1000km with a meal out, our first schnitzel and some local Reisling.
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Total Distance Cycled : 1006km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 75km
Ascent : 174m
Time Cycling : 4h 26
Average Speed : 16.8km/h
Campsite : N 49°54'31.5" E 07°03'23.3"
==========================

Remich to Trier

A very wet day. Started off with a detour to see a roman mosaic floor, which was remarkably intact and intricate. Enjoyed cycling along the river, despite the rain. Ended the day in Trier with a latte and apple cake in the beautiful square. Found a camping shop and bought a new thermarest for Luke to end his misery.
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Total Distance Cycled : 931km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 55km
Ascent : 138m
Time Cycling : 3h 39
Average Speed : 15km/h
Campsite : N 49°44'35.9" E 06°37'29.9"
==========================

Luxembourg city to Remich

Awoke after a rainy night to a leaky tent. Hopefully due to panniers poking out of the awning and acting as reverse guttering to syphon water into the tent, rather than an actual hole. Dryed out, then cycled the short distance to the Moselle river with Germany on the opposite bank. Visited a wine cave in the afternoon, one that is still using traditional Champagnoise methods to produce sparkling wine. They even still have one poor bloke whose job is turning 60,000 bottles a day by hand to gently shake the yeast towards the cork. Trade prices at the end of the tour meant that even we could afford a bottle within our daily budget as they were only 5euros. Champagne on the campsite again!
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Total Distance Cycled : 876km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 27km
Ascent : 196m
Time Cycling : 2h
Average Speed : 13.6km/h
Campsite : N 49°32'32" E 06°22'16"
==========================

Ettlebruck to Luxembourg city

A grey, wet and windy day. Only the lightest of drizzels though, so we weren't really getting wet. Arrived at Luxembourg city, situated at the top of a steep plateau. We only realised there was a lift for cyclists after we'd arrived at the top. Our mission for the day, to recover our post restant parcel from the central post office. Amazingly it was handed over to us without a hitch. The box contained our replacement Tunecharger, a special circuitboard which will allow us to charge batteries from a dynamo whilst we cycle. Up till now this blog has been powered by a solar charger. Lucky we've got the Tunecharger in time for the rain to start. Fingers crossed that it works as we blew the last one with our high power hub dynamo. Thanks to Callie's dad for locating the device and to Col for helping us put it all together. Thanks also go to Mr Tunecharger for inventing such a briliant product, providing the replacement and lots technical support by email http://www.tunecharger.com/.
After looking around the city we headed the last few kilometres to the campsite to get the tent up just before the rain started to fall like a Lake District summer. Luke is fighting his own Battle of the Bulge at the moment, as his thermarest is delaminating. The glue that holds the outer layers onto the foam in the middle is perishing gradually. Currently a patch the size of a dustbin lid has gone, which means that when he blows up the matress it's flat like a normal thermarest except at the bottom, which is like a beach ball. Luckily it's not impeeding his sleep, yet. Once all the glue has gone though, he'll be sleeping squashed against the ceiling of the tent. We need to find a camping shop soon.
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Total Distance Cycled : 850km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 55km
Ascent : 238m
Time Cycling : 4h 28
Average Speed : 12.3km/h
Campsite : N 49°34'11" E 06°09'37"
==========================

Bastogne to Ettlebruck (Lux)

Awoke to a misty cold morning. Onto another cycle path following a disused railway, which even went through several old tunnels. Slipped across the border into Luxembourg somewhere in a forest, without even so much as a sign to let you know you'd crossed into another country. Oddly the scenery was instantly different, with narrower valleys and steeper hills surrounding them, making pleasant viewing as we cycled alongside the Sure river. Passed a multitude of campsites down by the river, but pressed on and eventually stopped at Ettelbruck eco campsite. Our showers this afternoon were solar heated, and lovely and hot too.
The other day Luke bought us some pate for lunch, seeing as we were in the Ardennes. He thought he'd got us coarse country style pate, but on closer inspection during lunch it turned out to be chewy, and oddly unpaletable yet bland at the same time. Today we saw some identical looking "pate" at the deli which was labeled "tete presse" and realised we'd had some kind of jellied terrine of brains for our lunch the other day. Today we wisely opted for cheese sandwiches.
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Total Distance Cycled : 795km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 71km
Ascent : 426m
Time Cycling : 4h 20
Average Speed : 16.2km/h
Campsite : N 49°50'46" E 06°04'55"
==========================

Tenneville to Bastogne

More wildlife in the middle of the night. Awoke to shuffling and snuffling, and turned over in our sleeping bags to see a wet nose peeking in under the awning of the tent rustling in our rubbish bag. Apparently badgers like asparagus offcuts. Luckily it scared easier than us, but came back for seconds a couple of hours later. Inbetween badger visits we were also kept awake by what sounded like the entire localitiles farm boys having a big piss up nearby. Awoke in the morning to our first real rain, and waitied in the tent while it poured. All added up to a very late start, luckily we had only a short ride to Bastogne.
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Total Distance Cycled : 724km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 22km
Ascent : 329m
Time Cycling : 2h
Average Speed : 11km/h
Campsite : N 50°00'16" E 05°41'45"
==========================

Han sur Lesse to Tenneville

Saw a wild boar today, it ran across the road we were following through the forest and narrowly missed being hit by a car. Cycled on and came to a gourmet village Nassoigne, where the butcher sold meat exclusively from his own local farm. The smell of smoked meats made us want to stop for second lunch early, and we wished our panniers were bigger so we could stuff them with more sausage.

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Total Distance Cycled : 702km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 48km
Ascent : 427m
Time Cycling : 3h 46
Average Speed : 12.8km/h
Campsite : N 50°04'34" E 05°33'19"
==========================

Day off in Han sur Lesse

Visited our first tourist attraction, The Caves of Han sur Lesse. We were carted by tram from the village the few km to the entrance to the caves. As the only English speaking people there, so were caught inbetween a load of geriatric Germans, and a gaggle of prepubescent French. Managed to understand most of the tour by a badly written guide that had been shoved at us. We were busy tutting at a German who kept touching the stalagmites when we'd been told expressly not to, until we realised he was blind. Towards the end we were treated to a subterrainian sound and light show. Plinky plonky music and blinky lights. Followed by a bit of dramatic music and some red and blue lighting. They seemed to enjoy periodically plunging us into darkness for long moments aswell. A short boat trip took us out of the caves on the river that formed them. We avoided being herded with the other visitors onto the other spurious amusements, although the 4D spieliodrome did pique our interest.

Anseremme to Han sur Lesse

Late start due to a very cold morning. Straight into a climb through a forest to begin the day. Had to zigzag many km to get to the start of another cycle route. It was well worth it though, as the cycle path followed as disused railway line and was super flat. The path took us far from any roads, crossing the same two rivers a dozen times each, and dipped in and out of the forest. Final destination, a much more pleasant campsite at Han sur Lesse Treated ouselves to a meal out, as we'd forgotten to get petrol for the stove. Not much choice in the off season, but we were happy as you can't make pizza on a camping stove.
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Total Distance Cycled : 653km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 53km
Ascent : 472m
Time Cycling : 3h 54
Average Speed : 13.5km/h
Campsite : N 50°7'24" E 05°11'09"
========================== 

Floreffe to Anseremme

Into the Ardennes proper, rolling hills, rivers and forests. Aimed for the tourist town of Dinant, and spent a long lunch there eating frites and icecream. Followed the river upstream from there to find a campsite. The most expensive site with the worst facilities so far. Spent the afternoon at the campsite bar watching people in kayaks flounder over a wier, which was perfectly placed for us all to take enjoyment in others misfortunes. Not many of those floating past us seemed to to be enjoying themselves.

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Total Distance Cycled : 600km

==========================

Daily Distance Cycled : 42km

Ascent : 228m

Time Cycling : 3h

Average Speed : 13.6km/h

Campsite : N 50°13'44" E 04°54'31"

==========================