Eratini to Dounis Beach

Up early to vacate our camping spot on the beach before we attracted too much attention. Continued along the Gulf of Corinth following the undulating coast road. We're wondering what's happened to all the campsites in this area as more that were marked on the map today seem to have never existed and others, we were told, have closed down. Finally found one at the end of the day although clearly past it's prime, with an air of decrepitude and decay.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4827m

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Daily Distance Cycled : 56km

Ascent : 320m

Time Cycling : 3h 38

Journey Time : h

Average Speed : 15.3 km/h

Campsite : N 38°20'33.3" E 21°46'14.4"

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Delphi to Eratini

After a day off to visit the ancient Delphi, we set off again following the coast westwards. With undulating terrain we were able to make good headway in the morning. This was fortunate becase we were then delayed by Callie's disintergrating tyres. For the past 500km we have been sewing and patching them with cardboard and duct tape, desperatly attempting to make them last until we rendevous with Luke's folks who are bringing spares. The new tyres are cutting edge and made of space age technology fabric, which we hope will last longer. With the back tyre patched up yet again we made ready to leave, but did not even manage to exit the layby before her front tyre similarly went down in sympathy. Much cursing later we finally hit the road. Our map yet again showed mythical campsites which did not exsist in the real world. Late in the afternoon we stopped in a café to seek local advice. We were told that there were no campsites in the vicinity and the nearest one was back in Delphi. We decided to rough camp rather than fork out for another hotel, and headed for a secluded bit of beach at the edge of the village. Swam in the sea and fixed the puncture riddled inner tubes while we waited for the sun to go down before pitching our tent.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4771m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 49km
Ascent : 618m
Time Cycling : 3h 17
Journey Time : 6h
Average Speed : 14.9 km/h
Campsite : N 38°21'19.8" E 22°13'36.9"
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Mariolata to Delphi

Finally left the sanctuary of our appartment with Callie feeling mostly better. We were followed out of the village by a mangy stray dog for quite a few km. Previously we would have welcomed a canine companion, but our recent experiences with dogs have scarred us, and we found it slightly unnerving. Luckily it stayed behind in the shade after one of our rest stops and we battled on uphill alone to cross our final mountain barrier before the coast We were glad of the little cloud cover which kept the day from becoming scorching, and also grateful to some kindly Italians in a mobile home who ran over to us in a layby with blissfully ice cold water. When the temperature goes over 40, as it has often done here, the water in our bottles only stays cool for about an hour and after that it rapidly becomes unpaletably hot and looses all thirst quenching qualities, so that we have to force ourselves to drink it at all. After reaching the summit we cruised downhill and all afternoon had a view of the most enormous olive grove, a silvery green carpet that covered the whole valley all the way down to the gulf of Corinth.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4722m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 50km
Ascent : 618m
Time Cycling : 3h 27
Journey Time : 6h 15
Average Speed : 14.4 km/h
Campsite : N 38°28'24.6" E 22°27'32.0"
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Thafmaka to Mariolada

Slept late to day recovering from yesterdays exsertions hoping for a day off. After a lazy morning and as check out approached we asked to stay another night only to be turned away. The temperature was now about 45 degrees and two major climbs were in the way of anywhere else to stay. We made the hard choise of taking the train over the mountains. The train was late so we cycled in the dark to the town we had planned where we found the hotel to be full. After asking in a bar and the local police we ended up finding somewhwere to stay a further 5km down the dark road.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4658m

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Daily Distance Cycled : 14km

Ascent : 383m

Time Cycling : 54min

Journey Time :

Average Speed : 12.8 km/h

Hotel : N 38°38'56.1" E 22°29'01.7"

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Meteora to Thafmaka

Set off this morning and climbed up to cycle around the spires and monasteries of Meteora as the sun rose. Our efforts were rewarded with stunning vistas and cool air before the mercury rose to over 40 degrees again. The rest of the day was spent making good ground in the sweltering heat of the Plain of Thessaly. In the mid afternoon we made it to our intended goal only to find that the hotel marked on our map was a myth. After enqiries we were told of place to stay 35km up the road. We therfore set off again after waiting for the day to cool to complete our longest day yet. We chased the sunset and arrived tired and hungry as the night closed in.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4644m

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Daily Distance Cycled : 112km

Ascent : 383m

Time Cycling : 6h 26

Journey Time : 1h 50

Average Speed : 17.4 km/h

Hotel : N 39°09'23.2" E 22°17'36.8"

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Trigona to Meteora

Set off this morning for more well earnt downhill. Coasted along the sinuous road heading towards the rock spires of Meteora that grew ever bigger the hazy distance. Suffered another dog attack just short of our goal. This was merely an over enthusiastic pet that shot out of a driveway hot on Callie's heels. Luckily she was already coasting along at a fast pace, but with the dog gaining on her she managed to accelerate at a previously unknown rate and the dog gave up its pursit skidding to an ungainly halt. Arrived at Kastrki, a small town town nestled below the looming rock spires of Meteora and quickly took advantage of the campsite swimming pool.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4532m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 28km
Ascent : 78m
Time Cycling : 1h 24
Journey Time : 1h 50
Average Speed : 20.1 km/h
Campsite : N 39°43'12.9" E 21°37'11.6"
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Metsovo to Trigona

The climbing continued this morning as we battled up to the Katara pass at 1690m. At that altitude the day was blessedly cool, even so we inched our way up. The mountain, however, was not the only obstacle we had to contend with. As we cycled through a herd of goats we were introduced at close quarters to the vicious local sheep dogs. The herd was unattended and wandering in the road. At first we didn't notice the dogs as they blended in with the multi coloured goats. They soon spotted us though and barreled towards us snarling menacingly, either thinking we were goat rustlers or with dogs typical love of cyclist baiting. Callie sped forwards hoping to outrun them, while Luke gallantly fought them off at the rear frantically trying to zap them with the dog dazer whilst waving a foot at them at the same time. Fortunatly he didn't fall off in the process, and we both sped off as fast as our legs could carry us, until we reached a safe distance away and collapsed in a quaking heap. Once we'd stopped shaking like leaves we picked ourselves up and continued up the hill at a more reasonable pace. We spied a few more wild sheepdogs and heard them howling along the way, but luckily were not forced to run the gauntlet through a pack of them again. Reached the top of the pass for panoramic views of yet more hills, and enjoyed the long run downhill that we'd earnt through the morning's endeavors.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4504m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 43km
Ascent : 632m
Time Cycling : 3h 30
Journey Time : 5h 30
Average Speed : 12.2 km/h
Hotel : N 39°47'17.4"l E 21°24'53.6"
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Ioannina to Metsovo

Left the comfort of our lakside rest stop and headed with trepidation into the heart of the Greek mountains. We yet again found ourselves on a road with no flat sections. As our map lacks contours and few spot heights we only knew that our destination lay 600m above our starting point. We dicovered on the way that we had two other major passes to cross inbetween. Each time we summited we were unable to fully enjoy the ride down the other side as we knew we would only have to crawl back up yet again. Todays road also gets the prize for least forward progress for distance ridden as it was twisty in the extreme. At times we must have ridden a kilometer to progress only a hundred meters forward. We ended the day at our highest overnight yet with the highest pass of our trip to come tommorrow.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4461m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 56km
Ascent : 1236m
Time Cycling : 5h 15
Journey Time : 8h 15
Average Speed : 10.7 km/h
4otel : N 39°46'19.7"l E 21°10'42.7"
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Kalpaki to Ioanina

Having arrived back in civilisation we decided that some R&R was in order. We therefore had short day cycling to the nearest campsite to relax and do the chores that had been building up over the last couple of weeks. The campsite was pleasant and by a lake and gave us time to contemplate the looming Greek mountains that are to come.

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Total Distance Cycled : 4405m

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Daily Distance Cycled : 35km

Ascent : 155m

Time Cycling : 2h 15

Journey Time : 3h

Average Speed : 15.5 km/h

Campsite : N 39°40'41.0"l E 20°50'33.8"

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Gjrocaster to Kalpaki

Gjrocaster old town is a well preserved old place, full of steep cobbled streets and stone houses whose roofs are covered in thick slabs of slate. We found a lovley little guesthouse, by far the nicest cleanest place we've stayed in in Albania. The enormous room had a stripped pine floor covered in old traditional rugs, and the carved and inlaid wooden cornicing, pelmet and built in cupboards had also been restored. The room contained beautiful old furniture and an enormous wooden bed, the first one whose springs didn't dig into us, and that didn't threaten to collapse when we lay on it. The old stone house kept lovley and cool, unlike the modern concrete buildings we've stayed in. The guesthouse even provided breakfast, we werebegining to think that Albanians didn't understand the concept as all that's usually on offer is strong soupy coffee. The next day wet off through the last part of Albania and after our lunch stop our Czech cyclist friend caught up with us again. He accompanied us towards the border where we all smugly sailed past a queue of biblical proportions to cross into Greece without a hitch. As we cycled along the incredibly smooth highway the surrounding hills were now covered in verdant trees where there was only scrub in Albania. There then followed a series of climbs which were tough in the heat of the day before we descended to our destination. Our run of good luck and kindness from strangers continued across the border when we were given a spirg of fresh basil and two free drinks when we stopped at a roadside café.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4370m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 58km
Ascent : 378m
Time Cycling : 4h 10
Journey Time : 7h 30
Average Speed : 13.8 km/h
Hotel : N 39°53'22.9" E 20°37'22.4"
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Memaliaj to Gjrocaster

We haven't seen a single traffic light in Albania, probably because they'd be rendered useless most of the time by power cuts. Occasionally a policeman will man a particularly hazardous junction, where their main function seems to be blowing their whistle at anyone who honks their horn. Police can also be found at the side of major roads brandishing minature lollipops, which they use to stop traffic with. We can't be interesting enough to them as all we've had is a benevolent smile whilst cycling up the motorway. We were a bit purturbed at first after passing the motorway traffic only sign, but as it was the only road heading south we decided to take a chance. Soon we were heartened to see every type of nonmotorway traffic conceivable including mopeds ridden by children, horse drawn carts and even a flock of sheep. The pretense of a motorway was soon over when it ended abruptly at a roundabout. Albanians don't seem to understand the concept of roundabouts. The more major road fails to give way and causes a queue of traffic on the roundabout, which builds up until one of the vehicles at the front decides to play chicken and make a run for it. We've even seen cars going round the wrong way to make a shortcut. All this probably stems from the fact that until the collapse of communism private cars were prohibited, resulting in a maximu of 15 years driving experience for any Albanian. This fact is made all the worse because when car ownership was finally allowed everyone went to Italy or Greece to learn to drive. This afternoon we passed yet more roadworks as the road to Greece is upgraded to a motorway. The road was in varying states of destruction and at one point we were halted as a digger caused an avalanche from above only a few meters ahead of us. The rocks were being cascaded down the hill in this way to provide hardcore for building the road.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4312km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 39km
Ascent : 325m
Time Cycling : 2h 45
Journey Time : 3h 40
Average Speed : 14.2 km/h
Hotel : N 40°04'33.3" E 20°08'15.5"
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Ballsh to Memaliaj

As we continued into the hills although the going was hard the scenery dramatically improved. Gone were the heaps of rubbish and rusting oil fields. In their place were stunning hills and wide gravelled river beds, empty in the summer drought. The terrain began to become more remote and the horizon was no longer dotted with concrete shanties. Mid morning we encountered a Czech cycle tourist slumbering beneath a tree. We woke him to share fruit and tales of the road performed in a mixture of bad mime, German, English and lukes only two words of Czech. Our rest break over we packed up to leave and realised to Callie's dismay that he intended to accompany us up the hill. She needn't have worried as his enormous collection of panniers, rucksacs and bags strapped to his bike must've weighed even more than Luke's luggage and slowed him down so that she could easily kick his ass up hill. His whole mismatched ensemble had the aura of bag lady about it and the fact that it threatened to topple at any moment also reduced his speed. Our superiour bikes and suspension also enabled us to take the potholes and ruts in the road much faster than him. After an afternoon of riding with us the poor bloke seemed shattered, and he looked very relieved when we stopped for a well earnt drink and a bowl of chunky lamb soup.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4273km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 52km
Ascent : 530m
Time Cycling : 4h 03
Journey Time : 7h 10
Average Speed : 12.7 km/h
Hotel : N 40°20'58.2" E 19°58'28.6"
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Lushnje to Ballsh

We were able to make good speed along the plain in the morning to the town of Fier despite the road bing under construction. More realistically it was in a state of utter destruction. At this point we headed away from the costal plain and into the hills towards Greece. The countryside was an industrial ruin. This is the area where Albania extracts its poor quality crude oil and ancient oil deriks pumped languidly beside the road. The streams and small lakes were all obviously contaminated and a sulphurous smell wafted on the breeze. We've passed by an inordinate number of wedding parties in Albania and today bing Sunday it reached fever pitch. Every self respecting roadside restaurant was hosting a brash and garish nuptial feast and wedding convoys added to the already congested roads. An Albanian wedding cavalcade consists of numberous cars all bedecked in white ribbons, bows and hearts, the gaudier the better. The front car inevitably has a chap hanging out the window filming the procession with an enormous video camera. We waved heartily, wanting a feature in the edited wedding highlights video. After much fraught searching and a heavy session of haggling we finally secured a hotel room. The staff, an ex policeman and his wife were as friendly and welcoming as it's possible to be. An enjoyable evening for us all was spendt miming and drawing the various details of our lives and countries for each other. Albanian non verbal communication is so incredibly different from our own and this caused much hillarity and confusion. In the morning when we left our host insisted Luke join him in a shot of noxious home brew to help him on his way before giving him a bottle of the stuff as a parting gift.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4221km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 61km
Ascent : 295m
Time Cycling : 4h 07
Journey Time : 6h
Average Speed : 15 km/h
Hotel : N 40°35'58.8" E 19°44'09.4"
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Kruje to Lushnje

Fully restored after a couple of days respite, we took advantage of the flat terrain and favourable weather and got some miles under our belt. Ended up in a shoddy hotel. When checking the room prior to agreeing to take it, as is the custom here, Luke failed to notice that the toilet had no cistern. When this was later pointed out to the hotel staff they didn't appear to this it was a problem.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4160km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 93km
Ascent : 106m
Time Cycling : 4h 48
Journey Time : 7h 20
Average Speed : 19.3 km/h
Hotel : N 40°57'24.7" E 19°41'10.0"
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Lezhe to Kruje

Continued south along a road that threaded between the mountains and the plain. The road carried alot of traffic but the surface resembled that of the moon, and the endless mini buses weren't able to go fast enough to be a menace. Mid morning we encountered a group of five Polish cycle tourers. Unusually we all stopped to chat, excited to see fellow travellers in the wilds of Albania. After swapping stories of road conditions in either direction we went on our separate ways. The last part of the day saw us climbing steadily into the mountains. With both of us feeling limp we went to a roadside cafe to get some drinks. Our gestured conversation was made all the more difficult by the fact that Albanians shake their head when they mean yes, and nod for no! AFter utterly confusing each other we managed to get som water, it being one of the only Albanian words we have mastered so far. We climbed some more to end up in one of the only towns in the country not entirely made of concrete, having retained some of its old buildings. Planning to visit the bazaar and castle on a day off tomorrow.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4067km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 56km
Ascent : 595m
Time Cycling : 4h 15
Journey Time : 6h 30
Average Speed : 13.2km/h
Hotel : N 41°30'35.3" E 19°47'38.6"
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Mjede to Lezhe

Set off from our oasis and decided to take small roads instead of the newly built highway. The tarmac predictably ran out after a few hundred meters, and the road turned into the "strada bruta" that the locals hed described. The road was not the straight single road as shown on our map but a myriad web of dirt tracks with no signposts. Luckily their was plenty of people about to help us on our way. When aske directions they eagerly discussed the various options with a few random questions of their own thrown in, like "are you married" and "why not". Albania seemed more picuresque as there was less rubbish down these side roads away from the towns. We arrived in Lezhe and had lunch with Luke feeling a bit under the weather. After much trouble ordering food we ended up with a plate of greasy kebab meat each which did not help. Yet again we were suprised by the hospitality of Albanians when a man on another table offered to pay for our meal and would not takeno for an answer. With Luke now feeling weak and waffy we booked into the nearest hotel. After a rest we ventured out to find an internet cafe to update the blog as both phones are refusingto work. The main street of the town was closed in the evening and what seemed like the whole population was busy ambling up and down people watching.
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Total Distance Cycled : 4011km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 31
Ascent : 40
Time Cycling : 2 05
Journey Time : 3h
Average Speed : 15.1 km/h
Hotel : N 41°46'47.3" E 19°38'41.8"
==========================

Shkoder to Mjede

We were eaten alive by mysterious creatures during the night in our grotty hotel. One bit Callie on the lip and caused a reaction, making it swell up and look like a ducks bill. Others bit us both on the hands making them feel like they were on fire but leaving no mark. Checked out of there sharpish feeling very bleary after our less than relaxing respite. Set off across town in search of coffe to perk us up, and our mood was improved slightly when another cafe owner refused payment for our drinks. Found the correct route out of town, but soon roadsigns became nonexistent and we passed through many unnamed hamlets on the rough crumbling road. At least this slowed the traffic down and kept us alert. As we passed through the villages we caused quite a sensation, everyone called a greeting and small boys raced alongside us on their rickety bikes paying no attention to oncoming traffic. Stopped for a late lunch, and rather than trying to order from the undeciferable menu we pointed to the adjacent table and ended up with delicious lamb soup. After our hearty meal we realised how tired we were. As luck would have it the restaurant was also a clean cheap hotel. The only boy in the village who spoke English was fetched to help in the negotiations and much fuss was made of getting our bikes and bags inside. We were given a plate of fresh figs and were able to have our first bath since leaving home much to Callie's delight and Luke's horror. Over dinner another English speaker was called over to ensure all our needs were being met and explain that the electricity would be cut at 11pm. Most of Albania's electricity is provided by ancient hydro schemes, and little rain in summer means little electricity so ratioining takes place. In the event we were fast asleep before this was a problems.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3979km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 22km
Ascent : 30m
Time Cycling : 1h 35
Journey Time : 2h
Average Speed : 14.4 km/h
Hotel : N 42°00'05.0" E 19°36'57.7"
==========================

Bar to Shkoder

Finally mangaed to find a quiet Montenegran road as we struck towards the Albanian border. After an initial climb we coasted the last 15km towards the customs post, slightly nervous of what we might find in our next destination. We were certainly glad to be on bikes as there was a queue of more than 100 cars at the border which we skirted without a hint of guilt, saving at least a 3hour wait. Having completed the formalities we continued into Albania. We immediately saw the remnants of the old communist bunkers which litter the country, a reminder of the paranoia which once reigned here. At first little else seemed different to Montenegro except a few mosques built after the collapse of the atheist communist regime. That was until we reached the outskirts of Shkodra. There we saw a shanty town full of heaps of rubbish and scavenging animals and children. Some of the kids cheekily tried to hitch a lift on our panniers after trying to pinch our solar pannel, when we were forced to queue to cross an ancient rickety wooden bridge. We entered the town past more reminders of the old regime in the form of statues of partisan warriors and workers heroes. Again we were befriended, this time by a cafe owner who gave us free coffee and escorted us to a hotel to help us secure a room. Our day was rounded off by a power and water cut which lasted a few hours, in which time we wandered the town and listened to the call to prayer in the central mosque. Fortunately the water was restored by the time we returned and we were able to enjoy a freezing shower in our dirty bathroom
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Total Distance Cycled : 3957km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 52km
Ascent : 273m
Time Cycling : 3h 35
Journey Time : 5h
Average Speed : 14.3 km/h
Hotel : N 42°04'13.2" E 19°30'53.4"
==========================

Budva to Bar

Got up early to get out of the grotty campsite. Forced to buy water for the first time as all that was available was more dead sea than evian. Followed the coast southwards with mountains on our left and cliffs down to the sea to the right. Not a flat piece of ground all day, but constantly climbing over a series of bluffs only to coeast back down again. Many tunnels and crazy overtaking kept the route interesting. Drivers here honk their horn at any opportunity, it's hard to tell if it's a greeting or an obscenity, or just to warn us that they're about to try and run us off the road. Headed for Bar and the last camping opportunity before Albania, only to find that both campsites no longer existed. Tried to find a room instead, but had no lick as the place was heaving with Serbian and Russian tourists. Kept asking in every place with a room to let sign, and switched tactics, asking for somewhere to put up our tent when the usual fully booked answer was given. Eventually found someone who spoke good enough English and could decipher our request, although he had no garden we gound ourselves being foisted on his bemused neighbour. He soon warmed to us when he saw our bikes, and we managed to communicate in mutually broken German that we had riden all the way from England. We provided him and his extended family with the evenings entertainment of watching us put our tent up underneath their lemon and pomegranite trees. We were then plied with coffee and alcohol while carrying out some more mimed conversation, while the kids watched Montenegran stars in their eyes.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3905km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 51km
Ascent : 495m
Time Cycling : 4h 20
Journey Time : 6h 30
Average Speed : 11.7 km/h
Campsite : N 42°06'36.4" E 19°05'10.8"
==========================

Zelenika to Budva

A cooling breeze took the edge off the heat today as we rode south and east along the coast of Montenegro. We began the day circling an impresive enclosed bay taking a ferry which was free for cyclists across its narrowest part. Shortly before this we hard our first mechanical ploblem of the trip with Luke's cranks coming apart. All was not as bad as it appeared though and after a quick fix we were underway again. We decided to have a short day in order to break ourselves gently into the rididng again. On arrival at the campsite things seamed a bit grubby but not too bad. How wrong first impressions can be. The showers as far as they can be called that were as briney as the drinking water and completely out in the open. The toilets were a row of stinking holes in the floor complete with overflowing bins of used loo paper. There appeared to be a ditch of raw sewerage running through the middle of the site, a thouht that was confirmed when we saw someone pumping a chemical toilet out into it. The refugee camp feel was completed by there being no shade, rubbish everywhere and a pack of ferral dogs! Apart from that it was very nice indeed!
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Total Distance Cycled : 3854km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 37km
Ascent : 87m
Time Cycling : 2h 27
Journey Time : 4h 30
Average Speed : 15.1 km/h
Campsite : N 42°17'05.3" E 18°48'18.1"
==========================

Dubrovnik to Zelenika

After a long and relaxing break on the boat we finally made it back onto the road. The new leg of the trip was christened by a hairy ride through the crowded streets of Dubrovnik and up to the highway which clings to the mountains above the city. The traffic soon died down as we made our way through stifling heat towards the Montenegran border. We crossed the border and appeared to be the only people who did not have our luggage checked. Immediately we noticed the extra chaos and lack of wealth compared to Croatia. Rubbish was everywhere by the sides of the road and drivers communicated often with their horns. At our campsite the facilities were somewhat lacking but we spent the evening chatting with some Serbian guys who in their own words had a 'fettish' about England and everything was quite pleasant.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3817km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 56km
Ascent : 495m
Time Cycling : 4h 05
Journey Time : 7h 25
Average Speed : 13.6 km/h
Campsite : N 42°27'14.6" E 18°34'08.0"
==========================