Sunday, July 15, 2007

Drage to Vodice

Short run down the coast to rendevous with the Soñadora. Rode all the way down the mooring pier, ignoring indignant shouts of the marina crew wanting to know where two scruffy cyclists thought they were going. Found Callie's Dad and Oliva and enjoyed another random meeting of familiar faces in far off places.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3760km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 27km
Ascent : 111m
Time Cycling : 1h 30
Journey Time : 1h 40
Average Speed : 18 km/h
Marina : N 43°45'28.9" E 15°46'34.8"
==========================

Saturday, July 14, 2007

Razanac to Drage

Cycled on down the coast through more blazing heat but spared from the worst by a refreshing breeze.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3733km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 64km
Ascent : 275m
Time Cycling : 4h
Journey Time : 7h 30
Average Speed : 16 km/h
Campsite : N 43°53'22.8" E 15°32'11.3"
==========================

Friday, July 13, 2007

Novalja to Razanac

Spent another day at the campsite lazing on the beach and sea kyaking for Luke. Then set off to complete the ride down Pag Island and over a bridge to the mainland. The hottest day yet slowed us down. Bare rock abounded and shade was hard to find for breaks. The sound of crickets only seemed to make the heat more oppressive.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3669km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 54km
Ascent : 284m
Time Cycling : 3h 35
Journey Time : 6h 20
Average Speed : 15 km/h
Campsite : N 44°16'43.4" E 15°20'37.2"
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Thursday, July 12, 2007

Rab Town to Novalja

Up bright and early in order to catch a little taxi boat to the next island of Pag. Having negotiated a fare yesterday we met the boat at the quay in Rab and loaded up, our bikes propped in the stern. Fourty minutes later we landed on the sparsley populated northern tip of Pag. Each island now seems to be more arid than the last. Fragrant shrubs, twisted gnarled olive trees and monolithic dry stone walls lined the road. We made our way south through the heat of the day with the Adriatic to our right and the mainland mountains to our left. With not far to go and only a few days left until we rendevous with Callie's dad and the boat, we allowed ourselves a short day and relaxed in the shade in the afternoon.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3615km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 28km
Ascent : 245m
Time Cycling : 2h
Journey Time : 4h
Average Speed : 13.6 km/h
Campsite : N 44°32'18.9" E 14°53'09.5"
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Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Lopar to Rab Town

A short simple trip downthe island to Rab Town. We visited this lovely medieval town on our last trip to Croatia. On that occasion an almighty storm ran a river through our tent and floated boats out of the harbour onto the pavement. The weather appears more benign this time, but we are ready if there is a repeat performance. Searched out a restaurant we remembered from last time to enjoy their delicious seafood platter again.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3586km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 14km
Ascent : 108m
Time Cycling : 56min
Journey Time : 56min
Average Speed : 15.3 km/h
Campsite : N 44°45'09.1" E 14°46'26.5"
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Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Today we traversed the rest of Krk and took a ferry to Rab Island. Despite its diminutive siye Krk proved to be exceedingly steep. As we crossed its seemingly endless hills we surveyed a harsh, rocky landscape studded with stunted trees. Smells of wild thyme and an unidentified curry scented plant wafted on the wind. After a last hard earned summit, and a glorious sweep downhill towards the coast, we arrived at the ferry ticket office where they kindly radioed down to hold the ferry for us and we sped down the rest of the hill just in time to board. After a 45min crossing we disembarked on Rab Island and found the nearest campsite. Even bigger and more crowded then the last, but thankfully with more shade, the campsite resembled a small town with bar, restaurant and loads of shops including a butchers. It also had its own sandy beach which we headed to gratefully for another dip in the sea
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Total Distance Cycled : 3572km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 42km
Ascent : 532m
Time Cycling : 3h 04
Journey Time : 5h 20
Average Speed : 13.6 km/h
Campsite : N 44°49'21.5" E 14°44'07.3"
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Monday, July 09, 2007

Kostrena to Njivice

Struck south along the coast road. Had a rapid initiation into the driving manners of Balkan bus and lorry drivers, which to put it mildly are severly lacking. A strong wind and many climbs around bluffs and coves added spice to the morning. Crossing the bridge to Krk Island we discovered a cycle path which would make any British road planner proud. Despite the sign showing bikes and pedestrians happing going side by side the path was too narrow to even push a bike along let along ride. The sprial staircase in the middle made it totally impassable with our loads. After some comedy reversing we just cycled on the road and life was much simpler. Trudged through the heat of the day to our campsite, which despite being absolutely enormous was full to bursting. After scrounging a plot we rewarded ourselves with a swim in the Adriatic from the rocky campsite beach and the hardships of the day melted away.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3530km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 29km
Ascent : 205m
Time Cycling : 2h 07
Journey Time : 4h 40
Average Speed : 13.4 km/h
Campsite : N 45°10'22.1" E 14°32'41.7"
==========================

Sunday, July 08, 2007

Skoflje to Kostrena

Continued following the Reka river (which literally means River river) eastwards to the main road at Ribincia. Stopped at a fruit stall to buy elevensies and were accosted by the owner of the café over the road who ran across to look at our bikes and quiz us on our tour. He dragged us back to his café and plied us with free coffee and pastries, while telling us of his planned cycle tour in the autumn when he shuts up his café at the end of the tourist season. Reluctantly we dragged ourselves away and were soon in familiar territory at the town of Illirska Bistrica as we had been there two years earlier on a previous cycle trip. Followed the same route as before to the Croatian border and enjoyed the 20km downhill to the coast at Rijeka. Peddaled on past the industrial town to arrive at the same campsite we had stayed in before. The Adriatic lay tantalisingly close at the bottom of a cliff. We will have to wait until tomorrow to dip a foot in the first sea we have seen since the Channel.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3502km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 74km
Ascent : 318m
Time Cycling : 4h 24
Journey Time : 6h 40
Average Speed : 16.6 km/h
Campsite : N 45°17'51.9" E 14°30'29.0"
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Saturday, July 07, 2007

Ozeljan to Skoflje

Another disturbed nights sleep, this time courtesy of a paragliders party. Set off to climb up on to the rolling Karst plateau, in blazing sunshine. Stopped off at Stanjel, an almost Tuscan style hill town and got hopelessly lost in its twisting backstreets trying to find a café. Turned out there wasn't even a shop there, but very impressive expansive views. This limestone area is riddled with caves, and we headed to the most famous ones in Slovenia at Skocjan. At first we wondered how they had gained UNESCO status as the stalagtites didn't seem more impressive than others. But then we entered at the top of a huge underground gorge more than 100m tall and almost 1km long, which was quite staggeringly beautiful. At one point we crossed a bridge suspended high above the river, then wound our way back to the surface, where we luckily spotted an advert for a campsite just down the road, much nearer then we had though we would have to cycle. Were pleased to find we had stumbled upon an almost hidden campsite with very friendly hosts who gave us free cake and led us to the campsite with their dog, horse and goat following curiously. In contrast to the night before we had the whole place to ourselves with only the crickets to keep us awake.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3428km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 60km
Ascent : 539m
Time Cycling : 4h 25
Journey Time : 9h
Average Speed : 13.6 km/h
Campsite : N 45°39'19.1" E 14°01'29.4"
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Friday, July 06, 2007

Tolmin to Ozelijan

Carried on following the Soca river till the afternon where we came within 50m of the Italian border. At this piont we turned east towards the Karst region. Stumbled upon a campsite populated by paraglider pilots and spent the evening watching as 30 or more landed right by their tents in the campsite itself.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3368km
==========================
Daily Distance Cycled : 49km
Ascent : 270m
Time Cycling : 3h
Journey Time : 5h
Average Speed : 15.9 km/h
Campsite : N 45°56'30.1" E 13°43'05.0"
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Thursday, July 05, 2007

Kobarid to Tolmin

Spent another day in Kobarid as thunderstorms raged overhead. Finally set off and headed to the Tolminka Gorge, where we went for a hike. Stopped off in Tolmin to get supplies at the supermarket, and noticed a large amount of hippies milling around. Had our suspicions confirmed when we asked one of them and were told there was a festival just down the road. Decided we couldn't pass up the opportunity since it had fallen into our laps, whereas usually we're always a day too late for anything interesting. The small reggae festival was on the banks of the Soca river with one of the stages beautifully situated right on a beach. Managed to get on the local radio again, as we were interviewed by a roving reporter who wanted to know how their little festival comapred to english ones. Bands and DJ's all over cental Europe played a mix of music from classic reggae to some more funky fusion beats. Dancing was a welcome change to our usually quiet campsite routine. As it was a special occasion we even stayed up till midnight.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3319km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 27km
Ascent : 150m
Time Cycling : 2h
Journey Time : 4h
Average Speed : 13.8 km/h
Campsite : N 46°10'29.0" E 13°44'09.5"
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Tuesday, July 03, 2007

Day off in Kobarid

Today Luke spent a happy afternoon on the Soca river kayaking. Not only did he get an individual lesson, but he had two instructors one of whom was a world championship competitor. We spent the rest of the evening in a café chatting with Darren, a Kiwi cycle tourist who's working as a trekking guide in the surrounding mountains. We were glad to at last find someone like minded to swap bike tales with.

Monday, July 02, 2007

Bovec to Kobarid

Hopped a short distance down the Soca valley to another campsite on the river bank. Planning to stay here an extra day so Luke can go kayaking on some of the best white water in Europe. Appreciated the short day as it was incredibly muggy, and later burst forth with an almighty thunderstorm which thankfully cleared the air and filled up the river nicely for Luke's adventure tomorrow.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3292km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 25km
Ascent : 106m
Time Cycling : 1h 30
Journey Time : 1h 40
Average Speed : 16.8 km/h
Campsite : N 46°15'03.5" E 13°35'12.3"
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Sunday, July 01, 2007

Gozd Martujek to Bovec

Up another mountain pass today even more steep and sustained than the last. After a few easy km the road then wound relentlessly skywards up 24 numbered switchbacks. We forgot that it was sunday, which was a bad day to choose to do this popular route. Unlike the last pass, where we were almost the only ones on the road, this time we were joined by a multitude of cyclists and hoards of muppets on motorbikes. Yet again the scenery was stunning, towering cliffs and jagged peaks loomed on all sides as we made our way up to the 1600m summit. Looking down the other side we could see the road dizzingly far below in the valley bottom and we eagerly allowed gravity to take over the effort and rolled on down. We continued down the Soca valley whose river bubbled beside the road with the now familiar turquiose water tempting us to swim. We arrived at our camp tired, hungry but well content.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3267km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 58km
Ascent : 1058m
Time Cycling : 5h
Journey Time : 9h
Average Speed : 11.8 km/h
Campsite : N 46°19'52.0" E 13°34'21.3"
==========================