Bled to Gozd Martujek

Left Bled after lunch for a short day to take us to the bottom of another mountain pass. Went through the edge of Triglav national park, following a B road that quickly turned from tarmac to gravel. The path wound its way through awe inspiring landscape, following a gently ascending valley with steep tree covered sides and precipitous grey peaks behind them. Ended the day at a campsite at the foot of a saw toothed ridge which loomed above us.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3208km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 38km
Ascent : 401m
Time Cycling : 3h
Journey Time : 5h 30
Average Speed : 12.4 km/h
Campsite : N 46°29'05.3" E 13°50'18.5"
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Day off by Lake Bled

Spent two restful days camped by Lake Bled. Hiked up Vintgar gorge on a suspended wooden gangway that criss crossed the crystal clear water below. Also swam in Lake Bled, needing no more encouragement than a break in the clouds. Yet again we were treated to a nocturnal visitor. Awoke to the rustling of a hedgehog helping itself to Callie's favourite plum jam filled chocolate coated biscuits, which it apparently found irresistible too. It kept it's head buried in the packet even when we shone the torch on it. We weren't sure if it was stuck, or if it thought it was hiding from us, or if it was enjoying the snack too much to be disturbed.

Duplje to Bled

Lazy morning and a short day as we made our way to Lake Bled. A small but stunning alpine lake nestled under the Julian Alps. Even under heavy clouds in the pouring rain the turquoise water was clearly visible as we cyled around the lake to the campsite. Waiting for the storm to abate we were tempted by the smell eminating from the campsite restaurant and ate delicious trout with garlic, a welcome change from constant schnitzel.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3170km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 32km
Ascent : 332m
Time Cycling : 2h 31
Journey Time : 8h 15
Average Speed : 12.8 km/h
Campsite : N 46°21'39.9" E 14°04'33.1"
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Gosseldorf to Duplje

Got up at 6am and set off swiftly in order to avoid the midday heat on the pass. We needn't have bothered though, as shortly after setting off we got thouroughly soaked. Hid from the rain in a café refueling on latte and toasted sandwiches. When we set off again the rain had stopped, and luckily we were left with some cloud cover which kept the sun off us and made the mountains look even more imposing. 30km and too many switchbacks to count got us to the top off Seeberg pass and the Slovenian border. We arrived at our first proper border control and a jolly Austrian guard provided us with a stamp in our passports. Sped down the other side through dramatic scenery, but not quite as fast as Luke would've liked as a very strong headwind halved our speed. The GPS maps abruptly ran out at the border, and we found it much slower to constantly stop and squint at the map. Found our way to the nearest campsite, which was still another 40km from from the pass, and gratefully collapsed into our thermarest chairs.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3137km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 74km
Ascent : 888m
Time Cycling : 5h 15
Journey Time : 8h 15
Average Speed : 14.1 km/h
Campsite : N 46°18'10.8" E 14°17'09.6"
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Am Badsee to Gosseldorf

Glorious 40km downhill today. Arrived at another campsite by a lake, with the mountain pass looming over us.
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Total Distance Cycled : 3063m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 68km
Ascent : 180m
Time Cycling : 3h 43
Journey Time : 6h 30
Average Speed : 18.3 km/h
Campsite : N 46°34'28.8" E 14°37'26.7"
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Fischling to Am Badsee

Today was spent winding our way through increasingly picturesque wooded valleys. The hills around us grew into mountains as we headed towards the main bulk of the Alps. We gradually increased our altitude and had to haul ouselves up one final climb on a sometimes disturbingly busy road. Thankfully the traffic eased towards the end and we camped in a stunning location next to a lake and enjoyed the evening sun.

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Total Distance Cycled : 2995m

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Daily Distance Cycled : 61km

Ascent : 635m

Time Cycling : 5h

Journey Time : 7h 45

Average Speed : 12.2 km/h

Campsite : N 47°02'13.7" E 14°29'15.3"

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Hinterberg to Fischling

Short ride today, as campsites are a bit sparse in this area. So we decided to stop at an internet café just before lunch and catch up on some emailing. Turned out we were the first cycling customers at a café that was trying to set up as a cyclist's rest stop, and the owner insisted on taking our photo for his new website. He had just bought the place with the proceeds of 10years as a waiter on a cruise ship, and kept leaving us in charge while he popped out to the shops. He insisted we stay for an all you can eat BBQ in our honour, and charged us only 2euros for massive plate fulls. He then called up his mate on the local radio station we were listening to, and got them to dedicate a song for us. After pressing some free icecreams in our hands and under charging us for our drinks he waved off on our way. A few kilometers down the road our jolly afternoon was marred by the realisation that in all excitement we had left the map at the café. Luke raced back to get it and on the return leg managed to aquire puncture number two of the trip. All was soon sorted though and we finished the day at a campsite that usually only caters for the over 50's, no change there then!
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Total Distance Cycled : 2933m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 41km
Ascent : 220m
Time Cycling : 2h 43
Journey Time : 8h 25
Average Speed : 15 km/h
Campsite : N 47°09'47.2" E 14°44'17.8"
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Day Off. Lurgrotte Caves Peggau

Decided to satisisfy our troglodite leanings by visiting some more caves today. To get the caves meant negotiating public transport but after the experience gained on the mean streets of Vienna we felt we were up to the task. So after a bus, train, train combo we found ourselves ready to enter the depths. Our efforts were rewarded with a private tour as no one else had turned up. Our very cheery guide was no less enthusiastic as he showed us the subteerrainian highlights. Not least of which was a seriously stunted elder tree which has somehow managed to survive 19 years underground. It has grown with only an hours artificial light a day for 8 months of the year after it's seed found it's way into the cave during a flood. The rest of the day was spent living the highlife in our luxurious caravan.

Langenwang to Hinterberg

The rain had stopped in the night, but left a wreath of mist over the alpine foothills. This cleared gradually to reveal the tree clad mountains under a blazing sun. Today we followed an undulating river valley winding its way through the slopes. Just as we had climbed the last hill of the day, and passed the first sign for our campsite the inevitable afternoon storm darkened the sky and the wind picked up to buffet our bicycles. We then found the road blocked by several pine trees felled by the tempestuous wind and the policeman supervising the clearup operation tried to make us turn back and cycle a very long way round. We decided to stay and watch the firemen which turned out to be a wise choice as they made short shrift of hacking the trees up with chainsaws, and 10 minutes later we were on our way again. Lucky we didn't have to wait any longer as the rain didn't wait any longer either and just as we turned into the campsite it even started to hail. A very friendly campsite owner managed to pursuade us to rent a caravan for the night as it was only a few euros more than a tent place, and even threw free showers into the bargain.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2888m
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Daily Distance Cycled : 62km
Ascent : 319m
Time Cycling : 4h 17
Journey Time : 7h 45
Average Speed : 14.4km/h
Campsite : N 47°21'40.0" E 15°03'57.3"
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Wiener Neustadt to Langenwang

If I were a sports commentator, I would call today a game of two halves. We spent the morning relentlessly climbing evermore steeply in blazing sunshine. Sweat poured and our faces slowly turned pinker. Then, just before we got to the summit at the ski resort of Semmering, the heavens opened. At first we were grateful for the cooling rain, but once we began to speed down the other side of the mountain and the rain turned needle sharp we were suddenly freezing. To top off our luck when we were just short of our destination Callie got her first ever puncture, and the first this trip.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2826km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 67km
Ascent : 764m
Time Cycling : 4h 55
Journey Time : 8h 45
Average Speed : 13.5km/h
Campsite : N 47°34'07.8" E 15°37'10.6"
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Kalksburg to Wiener Neustadt

Were brought back down to earth with a bang at the campsite when a large group of unruly schoolkids set up their vast tent circle within 2 feet of us. Although this did provide us with amusement at first as they spent a good hour wrestling with tents as they tried to put them up. We were less amused to be woken at 1am to the sound of one of them vomiting right next to our bikes, and being kept awake by their loud nattering while listening to music on their mobile phones. All this resulted in a late start, but we eventually set off south in the direction of the alps more than slightly concerned about hills. We skirted round the Wienner Wald, Vienna forest, and crawled up a small hill to gain a spectacular view of Vienna behind us and then a large plain with daunting hills in the distance infront, some of which were capped with snow.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2609km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 51km
Ascent : 288m
Time Cycling : 3h 34
Journey Time : 6h 15
Average Speed : 14.2km/h
Campsite : N 47°47'16.7" E 16°14'06.5"
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Vienna to Kalksburg

Hi Blog Fans, we're back on the road after a lovely week in Vienna. Sorry for the blackout but we were having far too good a time to blog. Spent a whirlwind week with Callie's Mum & David and also Oma (that's granny in German) and cousin Rose. Visited all the places that Oma (a genuine Vienese) used to frequent, and met some relatives aswell. Highlights included the luxury hotel, a michelin star restaurant, prancing horses at the Spanish riding school and more art, churches and palaces than you could shake a stick at. Also enjoyed spending time in Vienese coffee houses drinking icecream coffees and eating cake. The food was also a hit with dumplings sweet and savoury featuring heavily, and aslo sitting heavily in our stomachs. After an extra night and one last visit to the café that Callie's great Grandma used to meet her friends in every day, we tore ourselves away and set off on rusty legs. Decided to take it easy and just made it out of the city limits, which was a hard enough task with all the navigating through the suburbs.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2708km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 11km
Campsite : N 48°08'58.0" E 16°18'00.4"
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Krems to Klosterneuburg

We have arrived at the outskirts of Vienna. Awaiting our grand arrival tomorrow.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2679km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 70km
Ascent : 53m
Time Cycling : 4h 18
Journey Time : 6h 15
Average Speed : 16.3km/h
Campsite : N 48°18'39.1" E 16°19'40.5"
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Grein to Krems

A hot muggy sticky day. Dark thunderclouds chasing us all day, which we managed to keep behind us. Put the tent up just in time before spots of chubby rain started to fall. This quickly turned into an almighty downpour with thunder and lightening crashing directly overhead. We sat in the tent marooned on our thermarests watching the water gradually puddle in the awnings and creep inwards and under the tent. The HubbaHubba did us proud though and remained dry whilst the tent next door to us was ripped from all but one peg by the wind and snapped a pole. Once the storm subsided we found our neighbours attempting to dry their saturated belongings. Luke fixed their tent pole with some of our precious duct tape, again we were rescuing Americans.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2609km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 86km
Ascent : 137m
Time Cycling : 4h 34
Journey Time : 7h 15
Average Speed : 18.9km/h
Campsite : N 48°24'13.1" E 15°35'31.7"
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Linz to Grein

More blazing sun and cooling headwind today. Passed through an area full of apple and pear orchards this afternoon, which get made into the local cider called Most. Stopped at one of the Mostelries to try the strong clear cider. It wasn't up to much and tasted more like a ropey homebrewed wine than cider, but at least it kept our legs oiled. Seem to have stumbled on a campsite full of Brits in mobilehomes. At least the ones next to us are Northerners who used to cycle tour in their youth and have a Thorn tandem strapped to the back of their camper. Also means we can communicate with them well enough to beg some washing powder off them, so we might not pong quite so much when we get to the hotel in Vienna.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2522km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 60km
Ascent : 95m
Time Cycling : 3h 26
Journey Time : 7h
Average Speed : 17.4km/h
Campsite : N 48°13'29.9" E 14°51'11.1"
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Kobling to Linz

A nasty headwind slowed us down today, but at least it cooled us slightly in the scorching heat. Whilst having a cold drink in Linz main square and perusing our map we noticed a campsite by a lake just out of town. Decided to head there instead of cycling on today. We're way ahead of schedule for meeting Callie's familiy in Vienna, and what better way to waste time than splashing around in some water on a boiling day.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2462km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 42km
Ascent : 54m
Time Cycling : 2h 41
Journey Time : 4h
Average Speed : 15.6km/h
Campsite : N 48°14'08.0" E 14°19'49.5"
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Passau to Kobling

We started our journey at the three rivers confluence. Each river is a distinct colour. The Iltz a dark blue, the Inn a milky azur having come from the limestone Tyrol, whereas the Danube is a muddy brown having flowed through farmland. The Itlz gets swallowed up quite quickly, but the Inn and the Danube refuse to mix. The river remains bicoloured for about 7km, almost perfectly bisected. We slipped across the border into Austria after elevensies, and again we were surprised that the scenery changed in unison. Here the Danube cuts a torturous path through high wooden hills on either side. At one point it even does a u-turn, then carries on it's sinuous path eastwards

Straubing to Passau

Favourable winds and an early start meant that we had passed our proposed campsite by midday. We decided to put the bit between our teeth and head for Passau, the last German city before the border, helped along the way by numerous stops at cyclist cafes. Passau is a lovely old city kept that way due to the fact the it's built on peninsulars of land at the confluence of three rivers which prevents sprawling expansion. The three rivers arrive from different directions, and leave as one eastbound. Although the Inn, arriving from the Tyrol, is the widest and has come the furthest the Danube prevails and carries it's name downstream.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2358km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 98km
Ascent : 187m
Time Cycling : 5h 20
Journey Time : 8h 40
Average Speed : 18.3km/h
Campsite : N 48°34'54.9" E 13°28'21.9"
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Regansburg to Straubing

On the cycle paths of Germany the weekend brings out the equivalent of Sunday drivers in the Lake District. The route is made treacherous by hoards of people exercising or bimbling along on their bikes oblivious to their surroundings. So called "Nordic Walking" is also popular here and unlike in the posters advertising the sport showing athletic figures striding purposefully, in reality this consists of couples ambling along whilst dragging skipoles behind them. These obstacles are mostly concentrated in areas close to habitation, so in spite of a sunny Sunday bringing out more than the usual numbers of exercisers we managed a good pace and arrived at our destination in plenty of time to go to the local Roman museum.
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Total Distance Cycled : 2260km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 61km
Ascent : 98m
Time Cycling : 3h 15
Journey Time : 4h
Average Speed : 18.5km/h
Campsite : N 48°53'37.6" E 12°34'25.3"
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Neustadt to Regensburg

Cycled on downriver to a monastery which was serving award winning dark beer from one of the world's oldest breweries. It seemed a shame not to sample a Pope endorsed god beer, so found ourselves drinking before it was even elevensies. Fortunately there were long tables full of old ladies doing just the same with their huge stein mugs lined up infront of them. Took a boat from the monastery which barreled downstream a few km through the Donaudurchbruch which promised to be an amazing narrow limestone gorge, which we wouldn't have been able to see from the cycle path. In actuality it was something of a blink and miss it experience. The boat passed by a few limestone crags, then the river swifty widened again. Some might consider it cheating to skip some of the route in a boat, but there were plenty of other cycle tourers doing the same including a couple from St Bees. There was even a special section of the boat for parking bikes, and a man to help you push your bike on and off the ramp. When he attempted to manoever Luke's bike into place he exclaimed "Ouf! I've been working the boat for 20 years and that's the heaviest bike I've ever lifted" or something like it in German, to which Luke replied "You should try riding the thing".
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Total Distance Cycled : 2199km
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Daily Distance Cycled : 50km
Ascent : 92m
Time Cycling : 5h
Journey Time : 6h 40
Average Speed : 16.6km/h
Campsite : N 49°01'40.8" E 12°03'31.7"
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